New rebuild 1963 A10

[magicflem]

I am sure this question must have been raised before, somewhere - but I can't find it!!
Just finished an engine rebuild on my 1963 A10 RGS, there is a head gasket leak on the primary side and a spray of oil from the breather under the bike.
Would the spray of oil and overheating all be related to the leaking head gasket - could gases leak thru the gasket and into the case via the push rod tunnel?
Would a retension of the head gasket (haven't done this yet) solve the problem?
Help!!!
Regards,
Kim 

[muskrat]

g'day Kim.
Was it a composite or solid head gasket? Was it annealed properly?
If can leak into the tunnel and would pressurize the case but so would blow by the rings if their not bed in yet.
A proper re-torque of the head (rockerbox off) is only 5 minutes away from lifting the head to try a new annealed gasket.
You could re-torque the four outside bolts, but it's something I wouldn't make a habit of.
Cheers 

[magicflem]

Ahhhh, beautiful Lake Conjola.....
Thanks Musky, I did cherry the solid copper gasket on the BBQ wok burner. Hopefully a re-tension will solve the problem.
What do you suggest lbs for bolts?
Also, do you run in hard or otherwise?
Regards,
Kim 

[a10 gf]

Hello, try a search for head torque, lots of info available, for both alu and iron.
And remember how the different search options works > http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=1352.0

[RichardL]

Kim,

Is there any possibility that your annealing method brought some area of the gasket to partial melting and, theferfore, surface deformation? If re-torquing the exposed four bolts does it, count yourself lucky, but I suspect a new gasket or, at least, re-annealing will be called for.  Have you done a compression test? Maybe both sides are leaking. Before and after tests could tell you if the re-torquing did the trick.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

30Ft/Lb with oiled bolts. (I give my cafe 35)
I don't baby mine, keep under 4000rpm for 1st hundred miles and don't lug it up hills.
How many miles since rebuild?
Cheers

[magicflem]

Only 20 odd miles since rebuild - I will re-tension head and see how we go.
I will let you know if this is a fix.
Thanks all.
Kim

[trevinoz]

Kim,
            Did you check the head and barrel faces for flatness?
The head can tend to get a bit of a warp.

Trev.

[magicflem]

Checked all head bolts this morning - no movement from 30 ft lbs as originally set when the head went on during rebuild.
Will now have to take head off and fit new solid copper gasket.
This is the way I intend to go:
1. Anneal head gasket with "Mapp" Gas to cherry red then immediately quench in cold water.
2. Clean gasket with "Brilo" sponge.
3. Clean all surfaces with "Prepsol".
4. Check head for warp - what is the best way of checking?
5. Coat both sides of gasket with "Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi Temp Adhesive" just before fixing in place.
6. Fix gasket, head, thick washers and "wasted" bolts.
7. Torque to 20 ft lbs then 25 ft lbs then final 30 ft lbs. Then leave overnight, tap each bolt head with brass drift then check ft lbs again.     
Is there anything wrong with my method?
Kim

[muskrat]

Sounds just as I would do it. Fingers crossed.
To check for flatness chalk the surfaces and rub them together. look for shiny spots.
Cheers

[magicflem]

Just took the head off and guess what a found.....
The timing side barrel sleeve has dropped 2.77mm!!! not happy #$@$%@^#$$$$
How the hell can engineers get it so wrong?
Has any body had this happen before and would it be part of my head gasket problem?
Kim

[muskrat]

BUGGA .
If your really care full you could push it back in and use a really small scotch key in the top to hold it or two small pins at the bottom of the skirt (chamfered on the inside to be flush with the bore).
Or. Get a new one made 0.002" bigger on the OD. Pray the other one stays put.
Wish it was just a head gasket.
Cheers

[duTch]

 geez mate, that's a total bitch agree the gasket would've been preferred...

 Regarding the:-

6. Fix gasket, head, thick washers and "wasted" bolts.

 The bolts won't be 'wasted' unless you don't use them, it's usually best to use 'waisted' bolts in the head..!

[magicflem]

Thanks guys....
Looks like the sleeve just touched the crank but lucky no damage to it or my new con rods.
It will be a trip to my regular engineers at Winsor on Monday with barrel, head and pistons.
I will have them replace both sleeves just to be sure.
The old sleeves will end up with the bloke who originally put them in - he may look a little funny with them inserted where they shouldn't be inserted!!
Kim

[muskrat]

The last set I had done had a small step at the bottom of the skirt for the sleeve to but against so it couldn't drop.
Are you buying proper sleeves or having foreign ones machined?
Cheers