Author Topic: Hydraulicking on an A10  (Read 2009 times)

Offline duTch

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #15 on: 31.08. 2014 00:36 »

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fairly sure my sump studs are in blind holes..only way is take 'em out and have a looksee
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Nope, the sump studs are open holes which go directly through the crank case.
This is why they are studs and not bolts.

 Trev, for my own peace of mind, I just took mine out to check, and no oil dripped out and wire didn't go in so as I said all mine are blind, seems some do, some don't. I have Allen screws in there, just haven't got around to putting in the proper studs.

  If Niges' are studs,and are longer, it's only to compensate for the thicker cover(fairly obvious), easy enough to check, just drop the cover and run a short piece of wire or tin around inside...??
 Can't see why they'd be longer than need be though, and I'll assume Nige, you tried turning it with the sump cover off..?

 How much oil did you pour in, shouldn't think you'd need more than a squirt or two...?

 Also in addition to what Bill suggested, but more related to wet-sumping, not to forget the magnetic plug...!

 
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline Nigeyp

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #16 on: 31.08. 2014 13:08 »
Thanks for all the help and suggestions- latest is gravity is working and barrels being drained. Having read other posts I am inclined to believe thath it is caused by the dynamo ch ain, when I try kicking it reminds me of the feeling of a bicycle when the chain snags on the cogs, there is a sort of metallic rather than hydraulic stiffness (bounce) when the kickstart is applied at various levels of travel: at top it now slips a bit through to solid bounce at the lower position.
i have been reading about the damage caused when the chain breaks!

Is it possible for the chain to have dried out and distorted or just seized, could this lock the movement of the crank and pistons?
has had little usage since then - (ashamed to admit) *????*
Can I verify this by removing the cover and rev counter drive, or do I have to also remove the dynamo or any other more bits?

I am waiting for a Haynes manual, but I am armed with copies of  BSA  workhop manual, illustrated replacement parts and Illustrated intruction book, which are photocopies of the originals by Bruce Main-Smith that I bought years ago at a classic bike market in the Netherlands.- but the quality is poor as they are only photocopies.

Offline duTch

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #17 on: 31.08. 2014 14:04 »

 yep- just pull it off and have a look, takes about half a stubbie..!
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #18 on: 31.08. 2014 14:22 »
It is possible for the dynamo chain to stretch or break and foul the drive sprocket. It's only a dozen screws to look.
Have you looked in the primary and tried to turn it over with the crank nut?
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
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Online RichardL

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #19 on: 31.08. 2014 23:04 »
It is possible for the dynamo chain to stretch or break and foul the drive sprocket. It's only a dozen screws to look.

..and those screws can be very quickly removed and replaced with a manual socket speeder or electric screwdriver, so, about five minutes to remove the outer timing cover.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline duTch

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #20 on: 01.09. 2014 05:23 »
 
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and those screws can be very quickly removed and replaced with a manual socket speeder or electric screwdriver, so, about five minutes to remove the outer timing cover.

 yup- that's about half a stubbie- depending on the weather
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline Nigeyp

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« Reply #21 on: 04.09. 2014 19:09 »
Having removed the timing cover the dynamo chain etc were all well lubed and still looked like new. .... continued to primary and noticed the to p nut that bolts the inner and outer cases was loose!  The primary chain also has excessive play!!  There is also a lot of metal where the casing has been rubbing the clutch and main drive!

The clutch is a devimead/srm type and after a little effort on the clutch nut the primary chain is now doing its job and the pistons are rising and falling. Tried kickstart with plugs out engine turning over a treat.

Besides oiling and greasing everything, and adjusting the primary chain, is it safe to run the motor with the casing off- in the event of it partially seizing again at least I can use the clutch nut to free the pistons.

Are there any other suggestions- drain the gearbox and refill with SAE 40? and any other checks I should make before running the engine again.




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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #22 on: 04.09. 2014 22:39 »
G'day Nige. Now we're getting there. "noticed the to p nut that bolts the inner and outer cases was loose" Do you mean the two lockwired bolts that go into the engine case rear of the engine sprocket.
And your saying the clutch center nut was loose? Is there a tab washer for that nut? If not use red loctite.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online RichardL

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #23 on: 04.09. 2014 22:48 »

And your saying the clutch center nut was loose? Is there a tab washer for that nut? If not use red loctite.


Red Loctite? Really? 260 deg. C. needed to remove the fastener. I don't understand why you would need this.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #24 on: 05.09. 2014 10:07 »
G'day Richard.
I remember my 4 spring clutch had no tab washer after it came loose. With the red loctite (not used for it's heat resistance) it only came undone when I said so. I also do it up with an air impact wrench.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online RichardL

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #25 on: 05.09. 2014 12:33 »
I guess since Loctite says "permanent" (until you apply 260 deg. C.), I'm imagining your bike spinning around on the end of your impact wrench when you try to remove the nut. That's not what happens?

Richard L.

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Online Brian

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #26 on: 05.09. 2014 13:36 »

Online RichardL

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Re: Hydraulicking on an A10
« Reply #27 on: 05.09. 2014 13:51 »
 *lol* *lol* *lol* Exactly!
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.