Dynamo driving sprocket removal

[bsa-bill]

will there be an angry outcry if I decide to thoroughly trash this original part by taking a cutoff grinder to it?

defo not, plenty of them lying around in sheds discarded as their owners fitted belt drives, which you might consider when your in there

[chaterlea25]

HI All,
Ruchard,
I had a somewhat similar issue in that the inner timing case would not move more than a smidge
The trouble was caused by scores on the inner end of the idler shaft and corrisponding ridges in the bush 
OK so what to do ???
I was able to remove the crank pinion and then split the cases
Then applied some heat to the TS side crankcase and tapped bush and spindle from the inside outwards
As the spindle was toast I didnt mind heating and whacking the end from the nut end
I have almost always found that the drive sprockets are not concentric with the spindle and that this gives a tight / loose chain situation 
I dump the lot and fit a belt drive 

HTH
John

[muskrat]

I see notink, I see notink.

[RichardL]

SUCCESS! removing the sprocket, that is. It turns out that this was one of those situations where "use a bigger hammer" (well, more of the small hammer) was the answer. This time I did everything I did before, just more of it. More force on the cheapo puller, more heat and more hammering and it finally let go. I am showing a picture of the lousy puller so that I can be rightly derided for the evils of going cheap. (But would I have wanted to grind down a good puller. I'm thinking, no.) Thanks for all the advice, the general direction of which was "go at it harder". No rocket science here (or even automotive science, for that matter).

John, your post seems spot on for where I am right now. The timing cover came off but the idler still won't come out and moves as you've described. Now I can just do what you did and things should be good.   I'm just starting work on the A7, so a belt drive is probably in the future, but might be a deferred expense, since chain drives also work, though, I do love the way the belt in my A10 makes less noise and more juice.

Thanks again, guys.

Richard L. 

[bsa-bill]

might be cheap but those nice thin legs and jaws could be an advantage often.
Congratulations then (ditch the belt purchase for a bigger hammer)

[RichardL]

I must offer a heartfelt apology to my cheap-ass puller for insulting it just before it removed the dynamo driving sprocket and has now removed the crankshaft pinion from my A7. I love you cheap-ass  little puller.

Richard L.




EDIT: Who's anthropomorphizing now?

[BSA_54A10]

While I am a firm advocate for good quality tools I must confess to haunting trash & treasure markets looking for quality tools going cheap.
These I am happy to modify.
The BSA special tool box gets bigger every day.
Congratulations by the way, tenacity usually pays off in the end.

[u28909z]

 A question about the thread size on the dynamo drive. I assume this thread is a standard 26 TPI Cycle? I have a stripped nut, and am struggling to get a new nut to go on. Just want to confirm there is nothing different about it before I run a die down the shaft.   

[bsa-bill]

Now then cycle thread does figure high in the count of As bits and bobs but it's by no way exclusive and a Lucas dynamo I would guess as being one of those that are different - off the top of my head I can't recall what that one is but the answer will be here shortly 

[u28909z]

Sorry Bill, my question was not precise enough, it is the thread for the driving sprocket, not the one on the dynamo.

Thanks

Ted

[RichardL]

Arthur,

Google never ceases to amaze me.

3/8 x 26TPI CEI  x 5/16" thick

At this post they say "thin":

http://baxtercycleparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4046

I believe "thin" means 5/16" thick.

Richard L.

[u28909z]

Thanks Richard, I thought it would be 26 TPI, just didn't want to run the wrong die down the thread to clean it up.

[morris]

A question about the thread size on the dynamo drive. I assume this thread is a standard 26 TPI Cycle? I have a stripped nut, and am struggling to get a new nut to go on. Just want to confirm there is nothing different about it before I run a die down the shaft.

You really should get yourself a thread gauge BSW/BSC. Cost nearly nothing and it's an invaluable tool for defining what thread you have in front of you;

[RichardL]

B, b, b, but Morris, that doesn't have 26TPI, does it?

Richard L.

[morris]

Well Richard it does as it's a BSW/BSP/BSF. It measures all 55 degree thread types and goes up to 62 TPI. It's  possible to roughly measure BSC with this set, but I have another set in 60 degree profile to measure BSC, UNF/UNC and metric