Cush drive Nut-Easy on/Easy off

[duTch]

 I know this one has been discussed in depth, and haven't gone researching, so if it hasn't happened already- I found an easy fix...much better than jamming the missus's ride in the spokes.....
 
Yesterday I pulled off the Cush spring, usually a challenge but came off with a tap of a rubber mallet.......

 Tightening was not so easy, as my clutch lets go after about 40 ft/lb, so I had beverage and would've slept on it, but I didn't get that far....
 had thought of dropping the sump plate and jamming something in there, but that idea evaporated kinda easy..until.. *????*where's that lightbulb when I need it..?? ok got it...

ok
  The lower primary adjuster bolt on Plunger engines, which equates to the lower of the two rear studs holding the inner primary case on S/A engines, can be removed and replaced with a longer bolt to jam the counterweight web of the crank as it approaches @ ~20˚ATDC to tighten cush nut, or to loosen ~60˚BBDC....I think (?) depending on the crank...it was too easy
 
 I took pictures, but can't find them now...

[bsa-bill]

Not quite sure I'm in favour of that one Dutch, in my mind's eye I see possible damaged threads that have to return out through an threaded alloy casting.
Maybe I'm just having a glass half empty day

Clutch holding tool is the dogs doodahs I found

[a10 gf]

much better than jamming the missus's ride in the spokes

rofl

[Butch (cb)]

Does sound like maybe you could bend the bolt over?

I happened to be doing a similar job - removing the engine sprocket on the primary of my Sportster just a week or two back. The nut is a normal RH thread but boy was it tight. The manual did suggest coiling nylon line in through a spark plug hole on that cylinders firing stroke to give some resistance. Hanging on to the tail of the line of course. Which puts it all through the rod I suppose - and I guess they should take it.

Rather than do that I managed to make a plate to join a larger stud to one of the tapped holes in the sprocket. Took a 5 foot pole over the end of my socket T bar to get things finally moving. No sudden bang either.

[RichardL]

Here's the approach I last used for tightening the nut. Haven't yet had the need to test this method for loosening.

http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=368.msg58817#msg58817

Richard L.

[duTch]

  rofl

....what's that...a Viking chortle..??

 Yo Bill, that was the first thing I thought of, and thought to waste a bolt and grind off the excess thread on the end, but when I screwed in the bolt to measure up (Unbrako 3/8" x 1" socket cap) I figured I'd do a test run steady, steady- started at 40 ft-lb no probs..55,60,65...before I'd even noticed- job done..no probs !
 In fact I was so surprised, I did it twice to check..!!
    For what it's worth, the Bolt hole is ~74mm (almost 3") radius so 65lb @ 12" i guess equates to ~264lb @ 3"...(unless I'm doing the maths wrong-mathx2 for Richard, I did it twice)
 So all I can say is that this is my future preferred method, not negotiable, not even going to argue about it....try it or don't try it.

    aaahh ....
 Ok Richard, Yea rounded me up , I'll have a look

 edit here, Richard I looked at your idea, admirable but I was expecting the cable to attach bottom-top in a X pattern on the chain (if yea kenow what I mean), so depending if tightening or loosening, the wire would be pulling against the upper (or lower) chain running in opposite direction..... but I like mine better...sorry-not

[a10 gf]

(excuse for offtopic)
http://www.internetslang.com/ROFL-meaning-definition.asp

[bsa-bill]

If it works for you Dutch then that's the way to go

[muskrat]

There's always "more than one way to skin a cat". Apologies to our feline lovers.
I prefer a rattle gun, bike in gear, rear brake locked.
Cheers

[duTch]

 haaha...a10gf- careful, don't rofl too much or 'someone' may need that unused ride to sweep you up.

 Bill and Musky- sorry that may ahve sounded a bit contentious, but that's where the mood swing took me...

 Seriously though, you'd be surprised how easy it is..

[BSA_54A10]

I use the piston stop method commonly called the "Indian Rope Trick "
Rope down the plug hole.
If you wistle or hum the right tune the rope will levitate out of the plug hole when you have finished and hang straight up .
Wistle the wrong tune and the carpet you are working on will lift up & fly out the window.

[Butch (cb)]

Always worried I might bend a rod doing that - am I just being a gurl?

[muskrat]

G'day cyclobutch. Only if you need to use a 6' pipe to undo the nut. The closer to TDC when it all locks up is best, and make sure it's on compression stroke (valves closed).
Cheers

[East_Coast_BSA]

Always worried I might bend a rod doing that - am I just being a gurl?

It's actually the recommended method by Rotax for removing clutches from snowmobile engines.  It works very well, I do it whenever I need to lock up the crankshaft.