Strip down signs

[bobandbec]

What would be the signs that a full strip down of the engine was needed?
Assuming that there is no catastrophe, and that you don't wait for one to occur, at what point would a decision be made to " get the engine done"? I have an A10,an A65 + A50 all that run pretty well to my novice eyes. Some minor problems which get sorted within my capability.
But I don't have much of a history to any of the bikes other than old MOT's, tax discs etc so I don't know what work may have been done, or not done, on them. Keep riding with the normal routine maintenance?

Thanks

Peter

[Johnny J]

Sorry if I hijack your post Peter, but I am also interested in this.
My A10 was fully restored in 1995 and has gone around 8500 miles since.
The only noticable wear I know of is some play in the gear box main shaft...

[BSARGS650]

If it is not rumbling, clanking, smoking with the tappets not increasing clearances at a great rate of knots....change oil regularly and just thrash it - it will soon let you know when its time......

I had a relative who panicked at the slightest of noises in an old Austin A60 and eventually killed it with kindness.....

[Beezageezauk]

Heyup Peter,

I'm with BSARGS650 on this one (apart from the reference to "Thrashing" that I know is tongue in cheek) and have the opinion that if it aint broke....don't fix it!!

I do 1000's of miles on my A10's every year and have encountered very few problems.  Generally, if a peculiar noise develops, check it out.  If you ever need to remove the head and barrels for any reason, then check the big ends while you can.  Only pull the engine out and split the cases  when necessary....but if you do....take the opportunity to clean the sludge trap out and replace the oil retaining ball and spring if the engine wet sumped prior to the strip down.

Enjoy the rides and don't worry about things that "might" happen.  They probably won't!!

However, I've known guys to strip engines down for no apparent reason and the resulting rebuild has made it worse.

Beezageezauk.

   

[Rgs-Bill]

  BeezaGeeza is absolutely right, you can really screw a BSA up by loving it to death.  Just kick it and ride it, ride the    " Bajesus" out of it, the BSA can take it, and it will let you know if it needs something.  Muskrat, " Musky " is of the same school and he used to race them as an outfit, and he drives the wheels off of them.
   Almost afraid to admit this one, back when I was young and dumb and full of cum, I tore the whole top end of my 62 RGSS, all down.  Took the cylinders to a pro to have the wear, and if any taper was present, miked out just to be sure.  He took one look at it before he even took out a micrometer, and said why are you tearing this motor down, I can still see the cross hatching coming up the cylinder walls, from the last re-build, "THIS ENGINE IS NOT EVEN BROKEN IN YET FROM THE LAST "  well you get the picture ! ! ! !  That is the last time I tried to over think maintenance on my BSA.  Turns out, that with a 67-357 high lift cam, there is certain amount of overlap on the valve openings, and smart ass ME was trying to quiet down the valve clatter, so I thought lets set the valves at  .007  &  .009, instead of 8 and 10, I can hear you guys laughing already, and I deserve it.  Well the valve noise clatter went away, sounded really great, until the engine is up to temperature on a hot summer day, and both Intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, for too long.  You already know what is next, engine will not run at all till it cools down for 45 min. or so.  I just assumed the head gasket was blown, and I did not have a compression gauge, so I tore it all down, lapped the valves in, which already looked really good.
 Took it all to the pro, and I imagine he was just shaking his head, but being polite by not letting on how dumb a move this was. This was 39 years ago when I first got the bike for monies owed me from a friend.  I now run my Intakes at .009 and the exhaust at .011, as per Musky, and it really goes like " HE** "  Still not used to the extra clatter though, but I can sure tell when the 40 weight mono grade oil is not up to valve train enough, so I put my finger over the tank return hole upright tube, and send more oil up there, usually only when first cold starting up.  Ever since that time I just ride the  " Bajesus " out of it, until it tells me it needs something, and I do not overthink it any more. Just the normal maintenance.  Every time I think it should need something that it does not need, I get out my  "Crummy Haynes Manual " ,  and read the story about this bike back in it's hey day.  They took 2 of them off of the assembly line at random, sealed them up, then at a chosen time  ran them 5000  miles and did nothing to them, including races etc.  If you have that shop manual read the story it is IMPRESSIVE ..
   
           BILL
Just had to come clean

[muskrat]

G'day B&B. Any time I have a side cover off (primary or timing) I feel the crank for end float and bush clearance. If that's OK and it's not making any horrible noises from down there, leave it alone.
Cheers