Rocker Tappet adjustment

[bsa-bill]

yep - every little tad helps

[bsa-bill]

To conclude and also a little guide to anyone faced with a stripped stud hole for the rocker tappet covers.
 I spent this weekend and Monday suffering a nagging  toothache, not the worst pain I've had but enough to annoy, this morning though it went to a different level and the dentist was phoned when MT wife (ex nurse) diagnosed an abscess, I couldn't swallow without excruciating pain, so here I am dosed up with antibiotics and pain killers that make a session in the  the shed extremely problematic, even if I could walk straight enough to get there, so thought type a conclusion to the rocker box thing (right whine over)

Rooting around in the bottom shed I came upon a very nice vapour blasted rocker box, made me wonder why I'd never used it then on further examination it became clear why not, lots of stripped threads, well it looked so much better than the one I'd used (to replace the cracked one), so I set about repairing the threads, all went to plan except for the bottom stud hole on the EX side of the box, it looked strange - cock-eyed, anyway I attempted to drill it straight with the correct drill for a hellicoil, OK sort of, but the tap didn't work at all, kept jumping, looked like there was a cinder or something in there which probably explained why it had been drilled so far of true.

At this point I should profess that in the words of the great late North East comedian Mr Robert (Bobby) Thompson when asked by his wife to put a new string on her carrier bag (pre plastic) he proclaimed "why am not an engineer"

So a bodge was required, I drilled the hole out with the biggest drill I could, drilled right through and filled the hole  with metal putty allowing it to protruded out of the bottom of the hole and sculpted the over flow kind of neatly, gave it 24 hours to dry then used an old rocker box cover to find out where to centre a drill and guide the direction, used a wood drill (with the little point on) as the putty is hard but powdery to drill and a sacrifice of one wood drill seemed fair enough.
did not need to increase the size of the hole for the tap, tricky bit was keeping the tap square, inserted the helicoil.

Tap was not far off, I had to very slightly ease the hole in the cover but not much at all

pictures hopefully tell the story

[bsa-bill]

pictures hopefully tell the story

[muskrat]

G'day Bill.
The original repair bodge of that stud hole looks odd. Is that weld build up underneath?
Cheers

[bsa-bill]

No Muskrat that is metal putty, my thinking was that as it's an area not seen a surplus of the stuff down there would give some stability to the stuff in the hole (which I had drilled right through) and prevent the possibility of it turning in the hole when I tapped it,
It is quite easy to work, and I would think well up to the small amount of torque required in that  location/task.
I did consider using two inserts (one size up and 1/4 one inside the other) to give more area of contact between insert /putty,
Probably filling the hole with weld would have been ideal but beyond my skills or equipment

[muskrat]

G'day Bill.
I see your reasoning. My only concern is the restriction of air flow over a hot part of the motor. But then it might act as a ram air and work better. 
Cheers

[bsa-bill]

My only concern is the restriction of air flow over a hot part of the motor.

Ah - didn't give that a thought but then here in Blighty probably not an issue 99  days out of 100