Author Topic: swinging arm removal  (Read 816 times)

Offline moe

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swinging arm removal
« on: 14.05. 2015 09:17 »
 Hello new to here .
 Looking for help
 I'm trying to remove the spindle from my A10 swinging arm it's well and truly stuck in the bushes iv'e soaked it in WD etc tried some heat down the tube but no luck .
 Is it a case of drilling the tube (spindle) till it collapses .
 Also should there be a little movement on the of side where the nut goes on ? this is why i started to replace what i thought was
wear in the bushes but noticed there was some play in the spindle is it a case of the frame hole has worn ? If so what do i do  Help please Moe   

Offline Topdad

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #1 on: 14.05. 2015 11:27 »
HI Moe and  *welcome* this is the place to sort out any of your bikes problems ,the guys here are a great bunch and incredibly knowledgeable. Regarding this for starters have you removed the retaining nut on the side gusset ,sorry not wishing to ask the obvious but it can be missed . Loosen the big nut on the g/box side and using a block of wood use a good hammer to administer a sharp shock and hopefully move it . I don't have access to much equipmentdo so I've used whatever to get jobs done . A rawlbolt inserted at one end  and a studded bar of same thread from the opposite side could be used to drag it out . Other guys will post soon lets know how you get on, why not give us some history of yourself and how you got into BSA's cheers bobH
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Offline terryg

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #2 on: 14.05. 2015 11:54 »
With one bike of mine, I ended up hacksawing through the spindle (a tube in my case, crossover rear brake) between the end of the s/a and the frame plate at one end in order to remove the s/a from the frame.  No matter what I tried, I could not move the spindle in the s/a 'in situ'.

Once out of the frame I burnt out the old rubbers using a gas torch and then slotted the silentbloc outer tubes with a sharp/new hacksaw blade, before collapsing them using a hardened ground spike (and hammer, of course).

An entertaining morning altogether!
Terry
'57 'SR', '59 SR, '63 RGS

Offline moe

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #3 on: 14.05. 2015 13:09 »
 Thanks for the prompt replies . I restored an A 65 18 months ago and had to go down the hacksaw route  but that was with the bike completely  stripped and access was much easier . This A10 is up and running and i was hoping not to damage the paint work thats already to late s/a will need to be painted again .The rubber in-tourcher wasnt the problem on closer inspection i have movement on the offside where the spindle goes thru the frame ie hole abit on the big side . Can the big nut when tightened up take out the play?

Online edboy

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #4 on: 14.05. 2015 16:22 »
hello, i would try the plus gas route first. but before trying to squirt oil in the gap you must emery or sand off the corrosion barrier . try to attack the gap with needle files and a stanley blade between the two corroded surfices or the oil will not penetrate. but once it does the spindle will move. a long threaded bar to spread the inside of the frame slightly will help and if not will give you some space to hacksaw the spindle and remove the swinging arm. the spindle will be easier to remove on a bench but obviously scrap.

Online KiwiGF

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #5 on: 14.05. 2015 21:16 »
Hello Moe, if the frame holes are worn in my opinion you will not be able to rely on simply doing the spindle nut up extra tight, on mine my frame was not too bad and I bodged a fix using shim steel around the spindle to get the spindle to a reasonable fit, other options include building up the hole edges with weld or filling the hole with a welded in plate and drilling a new one correctly aligned etc (yikes).

There are plenty of prior posts to read on doing the swing arm bush job, including one from me!


http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=4293.msg30591#msg30591

New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash EA7-168x, CA10 913x, left BSA together for Liverpool, 5th Dec 1955.

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (favourite bike)

1949 C11 rigid, but why!!! (cos it was cheap)

1937 B21, missing parts so mission impossible?

1952 Armstrong Siddeley Whitley for rainy days (with wife).

GL1800 Goldwing not sure why, maybe cos it always starts

Offline duTch

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #6 on: 14.05. 2015 22:55 »

 Based on your description, I'm with Kiwi- but rather than weld a plate on, it may be easier and less messy to use a big thick washer and drill for a locating peg or two after aligning it and weld those in place, and dress them off...? If this be the solution.. *dunno*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
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Online edboy

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #7 on: 15.05. 2015 11:04 »
i would suggest a better solution for this common problem of wear on the nut side of the frame would be to machine a newplate from harder steel than the cheap bsa steel and re-braze it back in place. obviously shop work and not for the faint hearted.

Offline muskrat

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Re: swinging arm removal
« Reply #8 on: 15.05. 2015 11:31 »
When I first got my cafe (1957 A7SS in 91) the swing arm was stuck solid. I couldn't get the shaft (hollow) out for luv nor money. I resorted to cut the plates through the hole centers. Welded the old bits back on, new shaft and bronze bushes. Raced it for 9 years and still OK today.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
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