Author Topic: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket  (Read 4621 times)

Online bsa-bill

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Mar 2006
  • Posts: 5342
  • Karma: 61
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #90 on: 29.06. 2015 08:22 »
Quote
I think SRM advise alloy rods should be changed every 30 years

can I buy now pay when they need to be changed *smile*
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online cyclobutch

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Aug 2010
  • Posts: 1425
  • Karma: 14
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #91 on: 29.06. 2015 12:45 »
Steel rods from MAP,
http://www.mapcycle.com/categories/engine/connecting-rods/bsa-rods.html

They really are too pretty to hide away. What about putting a glass window in the crankcases?

Which might tie in nicely with inspection caps in the timing chest when you have an end feed conversion (see that thread).

BTW – Expressing some ignorance here (most unlike me I know …). I’ve never understood the enthusiasm for billet over forged. In my book forged is surely better? But I’m wrong, right?   
Various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza


Offline edboy

  • Valued Contributor
  • ****
  • Join Date: Oct 2012
  • Posts: 424
  • Karma: 3
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #92 on: 29.06. 2015 22:11 »
i would suggest the map steel conrods are the ones to go for if you can afford them. if lubrication fails via the bush the left conrod always seizes first. at speed the standard alloy rod can snap and punch a hole in the cases. hopefully the steel rod would just make a lot more racket.

Offline Brucie64

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: May 2009
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: 1
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #93 on: 28.09. 2015 18:53 »
OK,

After many months of having my blown engine painstakingly rebuilt (new conrods, piston/rings/ crank reground etc) today was my first attempt at starting it, sadly it ended in complete failure, the dam thing just refused to start. I have a spark from both HT leads (albeit a faint one) and fuel in the tank/carb but that's about it, not even a glimmer. I even resorted to pouring a little fuel down each pot and kicking it over but still nothing.

I have today tried swapping the HT leads over, new plugs,. made sure the monobloc carb float wasn't stuck, checked fuel was reaching the jet at the bottom of the carb, disconnected the earthing lead from the magneto but still not even a twitch.

Does anybody have any ideas what to check next?

Yours confused.

Bruce
Bruce
Spitfire
UK

Online RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 4938
  • Karma: 46
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #94 on: 28.09. 2015 22:00 »
BTW – Expressing some ignorance here (most unlike me I know …). I’ve never understood the enthusiasm for billet over forged. In my book forged is surely better? But I’m wrong, right?

Here is what one manufacturer of automotive billet racing rods says about it:

What is the difference between a forged and aluminum connecting rod?

Forgings are easier and cheaper to manufacture and until CNC machining became popular, this was the only economical way to manufacture an aluminum connecting rod. Billets actually cost more, but the finished product is actually stronger and lasts longer. Part of this is due to how the billets are manufactured, as extrusions allow for directionality of the grain structure, adding to how well Aluminum Connecting Rods function as a shock absorber. Same goes with a forged versus billet crankshaft – billet is always better!

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline Brucie64

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: May 2009
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: 1
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #95 on: 29.09. 2015 02:45 »
Hi Richard L,

Thanks for your input however I am a little confused by your comments in relation to my ability/inability to start my bike.  I took the billet route for this build purely based on recommendations from persons far more experienced than I and of course availability. How would this decision affect the ability to start my bike post rebuilt  *eek*

Cheers
Bruce

Bruce
Spitfire
UK

Online duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4519
  • Karma: 40
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #96 on: 29.09. 2015 07:18 »

 Hey Brucie, unless I missed it, you didn't say if you cleaned the slip-ring and pick-up brushes..?or the points? ..always part of first response(note to self!!)...not to mention;-
Quote
..... disconnected the earthing lead from the magneto...
.... do you mean the wire from the points cover to the 'kill switch', or the Earth brush...??, that's the one under the brass screw head just inboard from the timing cover.....which is clean 'as above'...
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline Topdad

  • bob hebdon
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 2215
  • Karma: 32
  • l
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #97 on: 29.09. 2015 11:14 »
For my tuppence worth:-  check the points gap and that the contacts are bright ,flat with no burn. after cleaning the slip ring as per Dutch , I'd look to the plugs ,if they've been very wet change 'em ,they don't seem to like the crap that goes for petrol these days . best of luck, Bob
" rules are made for the guidance of wise men and the blind obediance of fools"
United Kingdom

Online RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 4938
  • Karma: 46
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #98 on: 29.09. 2015 13:38 »
Bruce,

Apologies for picking and choosing what to respond to without  actually adressing the more important question of how to get your bike started. The last time I had that kind of difficulty getting any pop at all it was due to my points opening asymetrically. I had rotated the magneto end cover 180 degrees (for a reason that doesn't bear explaining here) and the change caused the magneto armature to run eccentric in the body. After fixing that and, of course, retiming as carefully as I could, it started up. Bear in mind that this is just one of maybe several reasons you might get no fire. Faint spark should get some result, but I think it will probably exagerate other problems. There are several people here more knowledgeable than I that can talk about that.  (Beezermac, Groily, Muskrat, etc.come to mind, in no  particular order. Maybe "etc" will chime in.)

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline trevinoz

  • Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 2849
  • Karma: 66
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #99 on: 29.09. 2015 22:40 »
I would probably check that it is actually timed correctly. I've just been through this on my Norton and found that the timing was nowhere near where I thought it was.
Must be getting old.

Offline Brucie64

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: May 2009
  • Posts: 157
  • Karma: 1
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #100 on: 30.09. 2015 21:37 »
Thanks Guys for the latest input. I have re-checked the ignition timing again, points look good and gap is 12thou. I have sparks from both cylinders so at a loss as to what it could be. I phoned the guy who rebuilt my engine this afternoon and we went through pretty much the same check list as we have mentioned here but again have drawn a blank. He is now popping around with his van tomorrow morning to cart the bike back to his workshop for a thorough going over. I will let you know what he finds  *conf*

 
Bruce
Spitfire
UK

Online RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 4938
  • Karma: 46
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #101 on: 30.09. 2015 22:42 »
Actually, I meant to mention Trev, not just call him "etc."

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline trevinoz

  • Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 2849
  • Karma: 66
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #102 on: 01.10. 2015 22:02 »
I've been called worse!

Offline East_Coast_BSA

  • Moving Up
  • **
  • Join Date: Mar 2015
  • Posts: 82
  • Karma: 0
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #103 on: 01.10. 2015 22:20 »
BTW – Expressing some ignorance here (most unlike me I know …). I’ve never understood the enthusiasm for billet over forged. In my book forged is surely better? But I’m wrong, right?

Here is what one manufacturer of automotive billet racing rods says about it:

What is the difference between a forged and aluminum connecting rod?

Forgings are easier and cheaper to manufacture and until CNC machining became popular, this was the only economical way to manufacture an aluminum connecting rod. Billets actually cost more, but the finished product is actually stronger and lasts longer. Part of this is due to how the billets are manufactured, as extrusions allow for directionality of the grain structure, adding to how well Aluminum Connecting Rods function as a shock absorber. Same goes with a forged versus billet crankshaft – billet is always better!

Richard L.

The key with billet parts... billet parts have the CAPABILITY of being of higher strength than a forged part. It depends on what kind of material the part is made from. A billet part is cut from a solid chunk of material.  You can make parts out of superior strength materials to forging, because you do not have to pick a material designed for forging.  Again, this does not stop a company from picking a weak, cheap material knowing people will buy the parts because the box says “billet”.   When someone advertises a product as being "billet steel" or "billet aluminum", or "forged steel" you should be asking "what kind of steel?" or "what grade of aluminum?".  The material is more important than the process.

Online cyclobutch

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Aug 2010
  • Posts: 1425
  • Karma: 14
Re: Severe Knocking - A10 Road Rocket
« Reply #104 on: 02.10. 2015 10:35 »
That was probably where I was at.

I had forging down as walloping the thing into approximate shape at least, and as such the material flow lines more closely followed the shape of the item - thus it was more stongerer than billet.

Got a pal who years ago bought a cheap mountain bike - maybe off the back of a cornflakes packet. Anyway the wheel rims had a black finish to them and once he'd braked his way through that they then rusted. I can't understand it he says - the advert said they were alloy. 
Various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza