Changing the oil

[MikeN]

Ive just changed the oil on my S/Arm A10 for the 8th time since getting it on the road and ive decided its time I came up with a way of doing so without ending up ankle deep in oil.
  Can anyone suggest a drill for draining the oil so it all ends up in the waste oil container and not on the floor and my feet.
 Im sure you know what I mean,you pull the plug and it starts by shooting 2 foot outwards and then dribbles down the silencer while I try to catch some of it.
Mike

[LJ.]

I use a pump from a gallon size industrial washing up liquid dispenser. Put the suction part in the top of oil tank and then hand pump into waste bottle or other container. It also sucks up the sludge from the bottom of tank.

[Lannis]

JC Whitney and other discount auto places will sell you a little electric pump that does this same thing.  Some you connect to a drill motor, some have alligator clips for 6 or 12 volts, some plug into the wall.

They'll suck all your oil out in a few seconds.  Of course, to do a complete job of it you need to drain the sump too; I'm on soon for an SRM alloy sump with a drain plug like on my A65, keeps you from having to break that gasket seal every time you change oil; much less leaky.

Of course, if you get a certain amount of satisfaction from "make do and mend" solutions, salvaging a hand-pump from an old squirt bottle can be a way to go too.

Lannis

[MikeN]

Thanks for the suggestions.Any others?
  I too, already have a (homemade) alloy sump plate with a removable magnet.Its always pleasing to see how little,metalic debris there is stuck to it when its pulled out to change the sump oil.
MN

[LJ.]

Mike... Try waving one of those telescopic magnets around in the bottom of the oil tank and see how much metal particles you pull out

[beezalex]

Mike... Try waving one of those telescopic magnets around in the bottom of the oil tank and see how much metal particles you pull out

Yes, but put some cling wrap or a plastic bag around the magnet or you'll never get the shavings off.

[RichardL]

What is the biggest contributor to ferrous shavings in our oil:

Cylinder walls?
Lifter surfaces?
Cam sufaces?
Pinions?
Journals?
or other hideous possibilities?

It is disturbing that there should be an expectation of loss from any of these on a worked-in engine. As one popular U.S. TV comentator says, "Can someone talk me down on this." Why should there be a continuous presence of ferrous particles in our sumps and oil tanks?

Richard L.

[G/F DAVE]

I would say a lack of a decent oil filter if you rely on the standard BSA tea strainer.I have a alloy sump plate & magnetic plug but as I have a remote filter I also have no particles on sump plug when I change oil. Dave..

[RichardL]

Dave,

I'm rather sure you've said it here before, but if you don't mind saving me the search, which filter is it you use? Also, do you have an opinion on the source of the subject particles?

Richard L.

[beezalex]

Dave,

I'm rather sure you've said it here before, but if you don't mind saving me the search, which filter is it you use? Also, do you have an opinion on the source of the subject particles?

Richard L.

Well,  if they don't accumulate on magnetic sump plugs when a filter is used, the only moving part of the engine between the sump is the return side of the pump.  So, it must all be return gears and bottom blanking plate...

[RichardL]

Maybe I misinterpreted LJ. I took him to mean that the magnet would commonly bring up a lot. Re-reading, he might just be saying to make a test with the magnet, on the assumption that a healthy engine would yield little or no ferrous particulate.

Richar L.

[MikeN]

Re. Richard L's comment. I dont expect to see metalic debris on my sump magnet and fortunately I dont. The reason for this ,I believe, Is because I keep a service log and change my oil every 1000 miles.
  I think most wear must occur when the oil is left in an engine for too long and is allowed to become contaminated with moisture and fuel .
  I think that years ago when our bikes were just regarded as transport to many and not nesessarily owned by enthusiasts ,the servicing would not be as rigorous as it should have been.Oil might have been left in  for too long resulting in wear.
 Its quite satisfying pouring in a can of fresh oil , but to return to my original question ,my wife gets annoyed with me treading oil through the house when ive just drained the tank over my feet (again).
MN

[BSA_54A10]

Every thing that wears in your engine has to go some where.
Only really 2 alternatives
In the pot & ( hopefully ) out the exhaust
In the sump.

If you have access to an X-ray difractometer and a centrifuge you can analyse your oil for for the presence of the individual alloys within the engine.
This is a bit different to the $ 50 send a sample to Shell and get a table of the totals of each metal ( done with flame chromotography ).
It is facinating to look at the results and corrilate them with actual wear of individual componants.
As the wear face of the cams ( for instance) go down it leaves a little ridge on each side which will eventually break off. The actual tips will break off the gears in the timing chest and that is 2 that came to mind without any conscious thought.

Bike Beesa
Trevor

[RichardL]

Trevor,

I had to let go of my X-ray difractometer and centrifuge to make room in the garage for building the motorcycle. Dang!

I would infer from your comments that the particulate is so small in size and quantity, that the magnet (dipped in the tank or living in the sump plug) should not show any, unless there was some sort of failure. Is that your experience?

Richard L.

P.S. I checked-out your website and am looking forward to some photos from the rallies. wish I could be there. Are you the artist?

[snowbeard]

on the topic of the original question, I use a large (8-10 inch?) funnel and a big oil pan for draining a car. I lodge the funnel under the oil tank edge to catch the drips, and usually cram it in between the kicker arm and the frame (after kicking it thru without letting it fully return) the spring tension on the kicker return helps to hold it there (or throw it across the garage when I'm unlucky!  )

it is typically angled with the top opening toward the bike a bit, so that catches the first spurt, then being under the edge keeps it off the silencer.  pretty much a hack job, but it seems to work so far!