removing A10/RGS swinging arm

[sprint]

Looking to remove my rgs swinging arm. Half way through it but it looks like you have to remove engine and or gearbox/chaincase to get it out?

Please tell me that is not the case? Can it be removed without having to remove the gearbox/chaincase or engine, if so how?

[RichardL]

Sprint,

I have only removed and replaced my swingarm one time, and that was with a bare frame, so, not the most experience here. I just looked at mine and it sure seems that at least the gearbox and gearbox mounting plates have to come off.

Richard L.

[sprint]

Thanks Richard

That is my conclusion, bugger.

Looks like changing it will have to wait until there is a need for that. Such is life!

[Topdad]

Erm, pretty sure that it would come out without, after all the gearbox plates don't move with the swing arm do they ? otherwise it wouldn't swing far. Also trying to picture  in my mind the frame fittings and aren't they in from the s/arm mounting. As to whether its easier I can't say as like Richard only done it once and with a bare frame and we all know what a ball  ache this job can be.

[RichardL]

Bob ("Topdad", but I haven't actually relinquished the title yet),

There just does not appear to be room to move the swingarm forward enough to clear the swingarm side plates without running into the gearbox or gearbox mounting plates. If the swingarm side plates had been mounted tangent with frame pipe circumference, instead of along the centerline, it might have been possible to slide the swingarm down and out the bottom to where it could be worked out from, uhh, the works.

Thank you, in advance, to the first member who hits me in the head (or all members who hit me in the head)with how wrong I am, if that's the case.

Richard L.   

[Clive54bsa]

I'm really interested in where this thread will go, as I have all the parts to convert my '61 Super Rocket, inadequate crossover cable brake, to the earlier '54-'55 single sided rod operated brake. I converted a swing arm after borrowing a real one from a friend. I just haven't got around to installing it yet. I didn't occur to me I'd have to remove the gearbox and plates to do it.

[RichardL]

Clive,

You can just leave the hollow swingarm cross-shaft spindle in place. The thing you'll need is the spindle mounting point for the brake pedal. This would be a welded-in sleeve that runs through the frame where the bottom of the left-side pillion loop meets the frame. The sleeve needs to protrude a bit from the frame as a boss for the pedal to ride against. Maybe you already knew this stuff, but thought I might share my own doings.

Richard L.

[sprint]

At the very least it looks like you have to remove the inner and outer chaincase covers. If it can then be removed/fitted without having to remove gearbox and its mounting plates would appear to be unknown? It certainly looks like you would have to?

[unclerob]

I'd always thought it was possible to remove the swing arm without removing the box but now its being discussed I'm not so sure! Replacing the silentblocs was the first major work I ever did on an A10 but that was around 1973.....and I have no recollection at all of taking the engine/box out.....if I did I've blanked it out entirely!!
Did a rebuild earlier this year and took this picture....it looks to me that as Richard says the swingarm will hit the gearbox plate but maybe theres just space to lift it up above the mounting plates and get enough room to wiggle it out?

[sprint]

Whilst it may just be possible to clear the plates you then will have to twist the arms which are wider that the rear downtubes, which does not look possible?

[unclerob]

Yes but if you can get one end of the arm just clear of the mounting plates you should be able to twist it round enough to pull it out.....maybe?

[Clive54bsa]

Richard, regarding the mounting of the brake pedal, I was thinking about using an A65 brake pedal mounted to the side-car lug at the bottom of the pillion foot rest loop. I think it will bring the actual pedal rearward more than I'd like, but I could live with it to have the better brake. But I don't think I'm going to even think about it until my clutch or gearbox needs servicing, unless someone on the forum informs me that removing the swing arm can be done without dismantling half the bike.
Clive

[RichardL]

Did that thing with using the sidecar mount for the pedal as well. Formed a sleeve to fit the spindle by making a coil of steel banding. It was OK for an interim approach while I procrastinated adding the boss in the right place, but the pedal position was awkward.

Richard L.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
Clive,
My SR suffered from a poor rear cable operated brake for quite a long time, despite several efforts on getting the lever angles correct and so on
A couple of years ago, I had a further "go" at it and now it works well ( I can lock the rear wheel if needed)
I fitted NOS linings to the shoes (ebay) , still  though the lever had too much movement and pivoted too far forward, I packed out the shoes with steel strips shaped and wrapped around the cam faces
Centre the shoes in the drum, loosen the shoe pivot bolt apply the brake and retighten
I then moved the crossshaft lever so it would move through 90 degree angle with the cable as the brake is applied.
Then I unsoldered the cable ball end at the cross shaft end, I cut the cable outer to make it as straight as possible and made a new ferrule end to fit it
I then measured up the inner cable  and resoldered the ball end, making sure to tin and flare the inner cable properly
I'm fairly sure I posted about this back then

HTH
John



HTH
John

[BVSR]

Hi
Look at service sheet no. 313, second page: http://classicrider.dk/dokuments/ServiceSheets/sectionB_BSAservicesheetno313.pdf

Markku