A small rattle in the engine department....

[RichardL]

Guy,

I forgot to put in the obligatory "Don't ask me how I know" (DAMHIK). I know because when I did my first A10 engine rebuild I didn't know. It was about 100 miles (maybe) before my next rebuild, which was necessitated by a spun rod bearing.

Oh, one more thing. Everyone else here has a similar story.

Richard L.

[duTch]

 ...and on top of all that, I hope you'll check over the spare that you're intending to use..? I bought Hex-Head sludge trap plugs from SRM..worth buying as many for as many motors you have..well, maybe at least two sets...

[Guy Wilson]

So I thought it best I strip my spare crank down to check the Sludge traps etc as I will use the spare until I know the state of the original,
Can anyone tell me how best to remove the gear on the end of the crank that sits below the oil pump worm. as in the picture below. There doesn't seem to be a way of getting a puller on it.

[bsa-bill]

I always thought the two bits missing from the collar bit ( so vague I know) were intended for a puller, never used one tough.
I  use a hive tool, known to beekeepers, it's s very hndy bit of kit for all sorts of stuff.
insert the short L shaped end behind the pinion and apply pressure as if to force it off then give the end of the shaft a sharp tap, has worked every time for me. the tool is wide enough that you should not be able to damage the crankcase at all, goes without saying protect the threads on the end of the crank

[Guy Wilson]

Thanks Bill, that sort of makes sense and has logic. I'll sleep on it. I was nervous about banging the end of the crank unnecessarily, but if its necessary...
I'll post the pics of the broken bits tomorrow
Guy

[chaterlea25]

Hi Guy,
Theres a "special" puller for the gear
I machined up two legs that fit a universal 2 legged puller that works great
How tight they are varies from engine to engine 

HTH
John

[duTch]

 Hi Guy, Similar to John, I used a couple of lengths of ~8mm threaded rod and welded a bit of 2.5-3mm plate on the bottom of each- not time to look now for a piccie though; use with uni puller

[shabashow]

You're were really lucky there (if having broken a con rod could be called luck) that the rod didn't go through the side of the cases. Looks like all is repairable - all it takes is time and money! The barrels will be easily sorted by fitting liners. The previous owner of my bike threw a rod while trying to do 100 mph. The crank cases were destroyed and the barrels had the same big chip out of the bottom. I got them resleeved and they're just like new. I've got a 52 bike with 53 cases, crank and rods, 52 head and 2013 pistons :-)
You'll learn a lot, and hopefully have a worthwhile experience sorting your bike out. Plenty of advice available here, keep the forum updated with your progress, and I'm sure folk will chip in with good and useful advice to get the bike back on the road for another 20,000 miles or more.
John

[muskrat]

G'day Guy.
re chaterlea25's post the puller is used in the slots cut in the pinion (see pic).
Sorry Bill but I think hitting the crank is the last resort before throwing it in the bin.
Cheers

[metalflake11]

One of the most depressing threads I've seen on here this. Horrible seeing bits of mangled and broken engine parts.
Good luck with the re-build Guy!

[orabanda]

Hi Guy,
Hammers and engines don't mix; leave yours in the tool box!

Like others have explained, I found a compact 2 jaw puller at an automotive tool store. The legs were hardened (to be expected), and too thick to fit into the slots on the gear. I ground them down until they fitted, and have pulled apart dozens of A10 engines with this tool.

See the link attached; this is same the tool I modified - you have to grind the bottom of the jaws down (flat).

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kincrome-Bearing-Puller-19-35mm-K8101-/390940122411?hash=item5b05d8dd2b

Alternatively, you might take your bottom end to an engine repair shop; they will probably have something similar and be able to pull it off for you.

Don't forget to clean the sludge trap on your spare crankshaft, or you will end up going through this again.

Richard

[RichardL]

This got it done for me for about $8.00.

http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=8738.msg62472#msg62472

Richard L.

[Guy Wilson]

I'll go with the puller option. I'll figure out how to make something to fit..
Guy

[Guy Wilson]

Dutch,
The sump trap plugs from SRM you bought. Are they the same as the Triumph ones? I can't see BSA plugs listed.
I'm making a puller today!
Guy

[Guy Wilson]

found the correct SRM site now, so I'll write directly to them on the Sump trap plugs..