Project 1065

[Greybeard]

Would I end up with too much stiffness in my shaft?

[metalflake11]

Would I end up with too much stiffness in my shaft?

Hardly likely at our ages!

[danma]

 Finally sorted the electrics on the other bike, took too long and involved making a couple of bits an a bit of a re-wire but pleased with the result.

 Back to Bsaing   -the small g/box mainshaft bearing is the right id to fit the crank but the thickness and od is not helpful  ,plus it is not sealed.

 Have a smaller sealed bearing that is the same width as the spacer behind the ignition rotor and will also fit inside the two locating /driving socket caps of the rotor,but that would involve a keyway in the rotor to locate it.

 I really don't want to make another ignition trigger/bearing carrier thingy so will go for the easier sit it on the outside option.

 Carrying on with the undoing previous work theme the upper front crankcase lug will have to go and naturally the grotty green bungee will be replaced with a shiny new black one.

[nimrod650]

I have long thought a A10/A65 motor would be interesting and decided to give it a go and see how far I could get [expecting not very].

 This has been done before and there a few variations-Briz is heading the same way on a different route as well.I opted for the chew off and weld a lump back on route,  my brother is a welder [I'm not] so sticking slabs to cases was taken care of ,all I had to do was the rest.

 Various engine bits were measured and compared and paper was scribbled upon.
 A rough A65 barrel was attacked with a grinder until it would fit on my old A10 cases and bored to take a 850 78mm  Weslake  piston which had the same pin as the 500 73mm  nre piston I had previosly been running.
 
 Ccing the barrel and chamber revealed the compression would be woeful,even with a bathtub/squish chamber.Supercharger or domed pistons required--I'll worry about this later and move on.
 
 Purchased a set of A10 cases off ebay and did a bit of milling.

 Don't they look odd? I spent alot of time just looking at them and am glad I didn't buy a RGS just for a set of Da 10r  cases. The number goes anyway.

I suppose you could caption the pictures with- A light skim of the cylinder head rocker box face may be benificial to oil tightness or some such nonsense.

saw this on facebook producing new lighter a65 alloy barrels johnhill12@aol.com

[danma]

Top front lug now gone and dynamo clamp nearing completion. A simple half a pair of handcuffs affair that I made a prototype of in balsa wood. Often best to make something to find out why you should not make it that way and then improve on it.

 Balsa is cheaper than ally and easy to work with. [Just need a sharp knife to seperate  superglued fingers.]

 The dynamo will sit slightly foreward and higher to clear the welded on base flange so went for a srm belt job  [order to letterbox 24hrs]   figuring a toothed belt can be run looser than a v-belt and give me a bit more room to play with.

 I have an old dynamo body to clamp in  to help alignment when the bracket is welded on and then the timing side front plate can be bored to fit. Pleased the front plates can be reused.

 It still looks a bit chunky in the pics but will be whittled down.

[olev]

Gday mate,
First I've got to say I luv your work.
In one of your early posts you were fitting a superblend to your driveside case.
Do you reckon there is there much involved in doing this mod to a standard crankcase?
Also, did you have any trouble fitting the SRM pulley to the alternator?
I'm not sure how long the standard altron belt and pulley will last. It looks like a toy.
cheers

[danma]

 Hi olev,thanks.

 The superblend is larger diameter so you just need a bigger hole [obviously careful setting up and not using a knackered  power drill/dremel]. Its fairly straightforeward for a machine shop but requires some careful measuring and depends on the timing side set up.

 I think the hole needs to be slightly deeper as well as you end up with little room for the crank seal. The cage seems larger  as well. I addressed this by making the fruit bowl /alternator thing have a bit of diameter to extend the seal area. [easier to see in the pic ]

 The back side of the fruit bowl is also a tight fit on the crankcase, hopefully fooling the bearing into believing it has more meat supporting it.

 I have never done this before but several people have successfully so should be ok .Provided its under 850 and don't go too far over 9500rpm.

 Regarding the alton, I agree the supplied belt really does not look up to the job.
 The srm belt front pulley is taper bored for the original dynamo, the alton has a 13mm parallel shaft and key, so once again you need a bigger hole and a keyway.

 Hope this is useful.

[danma]

 I reckon I must have some female genes, as these daft ideas and changes of mind are making lots of work. Progress is still being made though.

 The dynamo clamp pivot is now supported by the welded on bracket and the t/s engine plate.

 Rather than move the idler on its shaft I lost the bit off the end of the dynamo that holds the cork seal to gain alignment of the belt.I'll find a suitable thickness gasket to fit.

 A couple of seals are on the way, and the outside of the idler boss will be machined to fit one.

 You can see in one of the pics the amount the dynamo has moved by . It's not much ,but I did not want to undercut the weld and slab just to fit it in the original position.

 A lot of work was saved by recycling the front plates although the d/s one has a large oil filter sized hole where two 6mm holes are required.  A simple ally plate solved this and mounts the regulator.

 The oil filter will be relocated in the mag position and I'll make the bracket that holds it on a breather take off . The old breather hole in the timing cover will be filled.

[danma]

 Another bit nearly done.

 The only way to make the oil filter pipes work is with banjos, so two banjo bolts and another boss were made. The male/male adapter in the first pic has a large enough hole through it, but a banjo bolt the same size would be too weak once the cross holes were drilled .

  The innermost feed to the filter just fits in under the timing case.The return on the outside looks vulnerable but will require vigorous cornering to scuff it. It would look better with a cranked banjo so the pipe flows into it better, even so it's an improvement on the previous setup.
   
  Another bonus is the oil pipes can be shortened and reused with a different fitting required on only one end of each pipe .Won't be able to fit a standard exhaust though.

The oil filter mounting /breather is a rough shape at present with a thread for a fitting and a pilot hole through it. My original plan of how to bolt on the filter will not work so plan b is underway.

[muskrat]

Won't be able to fit a standard exhaust though.

Yea, right, and you were going to?
Cheers

[danma]

  I'll be losing points in the concs with a non standard exhaust Musky.

 Started on the other half of the breather/oil filter bracket. This tests the grey matter as you have to think in many different dimensions.

 Enjoyable turning blocks into useful, exactly what you want items [would like to do some crankcases] but a bit time consuming.

[danma]

 Oil filter/breather just about done.Fits in quite nicely and the oil lines ,with new ends,don't rub against anything .

 The filter can not be screwed off at present but a shallow scallop in the d/s g/box plate will remedy that.

 An oil seperator baffle is under way to bolt to the inside of the new bracket.

Now the filter and alton are on I should not need to do anything to the cases so they can come out be cleaned and reassembled.

[danma]

 Now have a Brunels hat type oil seperator thing that might work .

I will put some folded up mesh inside it . It's not that different to what I had on it before so should be ok ,if not it's easy enough to get to change.

Decided not to weld over the old breather hole in the outer cover and to just fit a simple blanking plate.

Hoping to get it done for local bike show at end of month.

[danma]

 Decided to experiment with viton cord and groove on the crankcases.Same principal as a rubber o ring so should work.

 As is often the case holding the job to do the work would require some sort of shouldered thing to be made and bolted to the case to allow it to be fixed to the rotary table.

 The fruit bowl was ideal and with much checking and a little shimming was ready to go.

 I've always found the bit around the cam,where the case is thinnest is where it tends to leak so after bolting the cases together dry,with no grease or sealant just the viton cord I squirted some dye pen in the cam trough and orientated the cases to get the best possible leak scenario.

 It was over 10 mins before there was any sign of the dye pen coming through.

 For those not familiar with it,red dye penetrant is a liquid in an aerosol that has the ability to make a mess everywhere and being made of small molecules can expose unseen cracks and reveal holes that petrol will not pass through.

 I was expecting it pour out. With a smear of sealant  and larger molecules of r40 it hopefully may remain oiltight.

 Also machined the inner timing cover for an oil seal and made a blanking disc for the outer cover.

[danma]

 Clean up underway. Sludge trap bung and crud removed .

 Starter motor case useful again and the removable balance weight can be seen.

 This is a neat feature with these cranks and allows balance alterations by simply removing the sump and replacing the plug with a lighter/heavier one. Although I think you should just rev through the vibration induced blindness.

 Also removed the oprv and got another impressive pile of gunge.

 I reckon a few more days of cleaning /reeking of paraffin before its ready to assemble so will have to slum it to the local show on the other bike. Should not be much longer though.