Stripped fork cap lugs (bolts)

[muskrat]

I agree, studs are a much better option.
Cheers

[boltzmann]

My personal favourite site for checking all thread forms known to man, or just about (someone will spot an omission!), is http://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm

Thanks Groily, thats a great resource. I like the thread profile diagrams.

Man, studs seem like the way to go. I fitted a late model B50 front end to my B44 and it has studs. Star washers and nyloc nuts and no problems. I may be able to put studs in the A10 forks with whats left of the original threads and then glue them into place with some industrial Loctite.
Individual studs are over $5.00 each,  a 12" length of threaded rod runs about $25.
Well we'll see which way I go. Thanks for all the input. If I do go with studs I will report on the results.

[muskrat]

Gee, can you get 5/16" CEI threaded rod? If I need to make a CEI stud I go to the local pushbike shop and buy an axle. Available in 5/16" and 3/8", the nuts have a built on wassher. http://www.bike-parts-plus-more.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=36953&gclid=CIyOu86_nsgCFQwAvAodk_cJQg
Cheers

[boltzmann]

Hi Muskrat,
I think I saw 5/16 BSCY threaded rod on this site last night as I was poking around.

http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/

Here in the US BritishFasteners has it.

That link you gave has 5/16-26, but are they BSC/CEI? I didnt think anyone was still using those threads except those of us into old British bikes.

[bsa-bill]

I used long bolts threaded over their whole length (think their called set studs), sawed the head off them so had a nice end on the outside.
Sure I read the Japanese use cycle thread at one time

[muskrat]

BSCycle thread was and in some cases still used for bicycles due to it's (almost) self locking (shakeproof) qualities (like a morse taper).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Cycle
Cheers

[boltzmann]

Pretty interesting Muskrat, I'm learning more and more about threads.

I don't quite understand the bold part:
"Note that M8 × 1.00 metric threaded parts can interchange with 5/16th × 26 tpi parts with a "Class B fit", meaning you should not go back and forth between threadings"

Almost pulled the trigger on a thread repair kit. If I wait I may talk myself into thread repair kit and long bolts for studs...

A more pressing issue has come up- the neighbor is going to remove a tree behind our garage (which is more like a glorified shed ) so I am going to have to load the bikes up and leave them over at a friends. Wouldn't want those boys to drop a tree on them. Hopefully we will be moving in December to a house with a proper garage.

[muskrat]

Meaning the metric threaded bolt will go in but damage the cycle thread in doing so. So if you try to put in a correct bolt later it wont hold very well.
This is a VERY important part of the bike. For safety sake don't bodge it. Helicoil it then you can choose stud or bolt.
Cheers