New bearings notchy - normal?

[bakerlonglegs]

Hi,
I had the wheels rebuilt for my plunger a10 project. While he was at it I asked the builder to fit new bearings which I'd bought from Feked. The new bearing he fitted in the rear brake drum/chainwheel housing feels distinctly notchy on turning - is that normal for a new bearing or should I push it out and fit another?
Cheers for any thoughts!

[a101960]

Bearings should not feel notchy. Ideally the bearing in the rear hub should be pressed into position. Maybe yours was knocked into place and was damaged in the process? Alternatively you might just have been unlucky and were supplied with a faulty bearing. Did either you or your wheel builder check it before fitting?

[coater87]

 Nope, does not matter which maker or where you got it, some brand new bearings are notchy right out of the cellophane.

 If its for something that does not move a whole lot we run them at work. If its for an electric motor, we dont use them.

 If its an open bearing, you could try washing it out and re-lubing it (this has never worked for me- but some guys says they have had success).

 If its sealed, your up a creek.

 Find a bearing supplier near you where they let you check the bearings before you buy them if you can.

 It seems that since China started to mass produce bearings, its been a race to the bottom as far as quality bearings go. Even brands like SKF and Timken and not what they used to be. But they cannot afford to be, nobody is going to pay $80.00 for a single bearing when they can take their chances on a ten-pack for $12.00 on E-Bay.

 Yup, a race to the bottom...

[Slippery Sam]

Not worth the risk/worry.
At £10 - fire in a new one.
It'pretty easy to dink a new one going in if your using an old socket or something to knock it in.
Notch you usually means the ball has dented the race.
Take care not to apply force to the inner 

Cheers raymond.

[bakerlonglegs]

Thanks very much for all the replies - I'll order up a new one and get busy!   

[BSA_54A10]

Nope, does not matter which maker or where you got it, some brand new bearings are notchy right out of the cellophane.

 If its for something that does not move a whole lot we run them at work. If its for an electric motor, we dont use them.

 If its an open bearing, you could try washing it out and re-lubing it (this has never worked for me- but some guys says they have had success).

 If its sealed, your up a creek.

 Find a bearing supplier near you where they let you check the bearings before you buy them if you can.

 It seems that since China started to mass produce bearings, its been a race to the bottom as far as quality bearings go. Even brands like SKF and Timken and not what they used to be. But they cannot afford to be, nobody is going to pay $80.00 for a single bearing when they can take their chances on a ten-pack for $12.00 on E-Bay.

 Yup, a race to the bottom...

Har yes.
what name you want me put on your bearings.
The most forged thing is bearings.
My local supplier tells me he regularly gets fake bearings from his wholesalers.
He sends them back then notifies the bearing company ( he gets paid a spotters fee ).
has no idea what the wholesaler does with the dud stock.
Apparently some time ago bearing companies set minimum purchase order volume / value so most small shops now have to buy through a wholesaler.
I have seen bearings that I use commonly 6205 supposed to be genuine in 10 packs for $ 12 with free postage.
Same evilbay vendor was selling the same pack under 4 different brand names.

[Bearing MIke]

There are a great many falsities related to bearings being posted. Not to defend China bearing manufacturers, however, SKF, Timken, Fag, INA and most others make bearings in China for the domestic market and for export. There are really good China made bearings and some bad ones. The trick is to be able to tell them apart.
In general the distorted reports about fake bearings are mostly perpetrated by non-China manufacturers, to protect their market. The hypocrisy of it all is that the same manufacturers make the bearings in China and re-sell them in NA and Europe.

If a six pack of bearings is selling on Ali-Express or EBay for $12, and you buy them, obviously you get what you pay for. However, note this : the original manufacturer in many cases is buying bearings from China to make their products. They are buying from the lowest cost provider, but they know who's bearings to buy.

I am a bearing engineer that has dealt in bearing applications and procurement for over 40 years. I have no ground to protect so what I write is the unbiased truth.

[Butch (cb)]

I worked my apprenticeship at RHP in Chelmsford in the late 70s. We used to badge engineer bearings for other suppliers back then. It was all of a good enough quality and reflected price that it went out of business.

[Rex]

After a lifetime in engineering I've never known a "good" bearing to be notchy when new. Ever. What can and does often happen is that the labourer is given the job of installing bearings and he nauses it up, maybe by hitting/pushing on the seal or inner when inserting in a housing, or pushing on the outer when installing on a shaft, or, if the assembly is two bearings on either end of a shaft (axle) the bearings can be stressed by being "pushed" too tightly inwards towards each other.
The latter can sometimes be easily checked and cured by a sharp tap on the either end of the axle with a copper faced hammer, which of course is on the proviso that so much force was not used originally that the races are now knackered beyond further use.

[RoyC]

I have a new wheel ready to be fitted and that has new bearings that are notchy, but only in one direction.
Does anyone know what number the bearings (Not BSA part No) are for a Triumph T120 6T T150 BSA A65 A75 TLS Front brake and full width flanged hub ? so that I can purchase some decent ones.
Roy.

[Rex]

They'll be metric, so measure them and go online to find the ref number. Bearing Boys are good for new replacements, and they have a size chart too.

[duTch]

 

Does anyone know what number the bearings (Not BSA part No) are for a Triumph T120 6T T150 BSA A65 A75 TLS Front brake and full width flanged hub....

 Dunno about the flanged hub, but I bought some for my Conical hub TLS front wheel the other week, number is 6204 (Fairly sure is 47 x 20 x 14 )