It depends which race is being bothersome Mike.
For the inner races, there are some simpler ways than making profile clamping tools or finding access to an 'Octopus' extractor. One not-so-good wheeze which can work is to wrap a strand of thick single-strand copper wire in the ball track and squeeze the race in a vice, and tap the shaft to see if the bearing will slide off. But caution! it's not a great plan as races can crack with too much vice pressure and some bearings are just too well stuck on. (OK if the bearing is to be replaced though.)
A better plan is a simpler extractor - a plate of steel with a hole the size of the diameter of the race, with three or four grub screws disposed radially to engage the track for the balls. Small allen screws with their noses ground 'rounded' can work well. Then hoick the thing off with a typical puller. This will almost always work. But protect the end of the brass taper for the cb assembly if using a puller which bears in that area.
You mention the brightspark tools, which we made because we do a lot of this. But I don't actually use, for extractions, the large push-me pull-me tool for inner races that is shown on the site, with its collets etc. I use a simpler clamp tool I made from steel years and years ago, with the profiles for 15mm and 18mm bearings cut into a single reversible lump, with steel arms and a chunky thread on the extractor bolt. It has served me half a life-time and is capable of exerting a lot more pressure than the larger and more sophisticated item with the collets. But it won't refit the race, which was the point of the sexier weapon.
For the outer races, it's harder sometimes. At the drive end, a heat gun or immersion in boiling water and then a drift against the oil seal on a K2F can sometimes shift them. A screwdriver with a bend put on the extreme end and used as a lever can sometimes do it. Or, in many cases I've seen mag bodies with two small holes drilled from the outside to enable access with a small drift to the rear of the race. This isn't elegant, but really does no great harm as the race and insulator (and oil seal on a K) will not let oil in; or tap and thread for a bit of threaded rod, like 6BA or something, to plug the holes again.
At the cb end, the race is easier to get a bent lever onto. With some heat and some careful prising they will probably come.
However, there's no doubt that using an expanding weapon with sharp edges and a 'camming' action makes it a heck of a lot easier. If doing them more than infrequently, it's worth making something or buying enough beers to get a mate with a lathe to make one.
Maybe folk have come up with other, smarter, ways to do this without the need for special kit?
It is a surprise to me that a profile clamp puller isn't actually commercially available for these inner races (as far as I know), because I'd have thought there would be a market for them judging from the number of people who happily replace their sliprings and bearings themselves. There may be 'knife' extractors, similar to but miles smaller than, the items used to get drive side main bearing races etc off. At one point, I made a dozen sets of pullers for getting 15mm races and also sliprings off. The idea was to have a 'toolpack' for customers to use. But in 5 years only two people had asked, by which time we had given them away to mates. They were made according to the downloadable drawing you refer to Mike.