Author Topic: Charging  (Read 1704 times)

Offline Tone

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Charging
« on: 31.05. 2009 17:11 »
Hi again, Can someone please tell me how I hook up a meter to check the charging system. On the meter I have; V with a line above and three dots below it, a V with a squiggly line behind it, and an A with the same straight line and dots.Sorry if this seems daft to you but electrics are a bit of a mystery to me, Cheers.

Offline a10gf

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Re: Charging
« Reply #1 on: 31.05. 2009 17:52 »
The basics:

DC voltage = the 'line above and three dots', as used f.ex. for the 6v (or 12v) on an A10.
AC voltage = the inverted horizontal S, as used f.ex. in the 230v mains in your house.

So you'll use the DC 'line above and three dots' settings.

Same applies to A (ampere, = current).

To check the voltage, use a high enough DC setting on your instrument, and connect the wires across f.ex. the battery to get a readout. This is a paralell connection.

To check f.ex. charging current with engine running, disconnect the + (or -) on the battery, set your instrument to 10A DC ( + you'll very probably see a dedicated 10A socket on your instrument that is to be used for one of the cables), then connect the instrument in series with the cable you disconnected from the battery and the pole of the battery itself.

Be carefull when alternatively doing voltage and current measuring, the cables needs to always be in their correct sockets on the instrument, and the settings of the instrument needs to be correct, to avoid blowing fuses or damaging the instrument etc.

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Offline Tone

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Re: Charging
« Reply #2 on: 31.05. 2009 18:26 »
Thanks a10gf, Can you tell me what f.ex. is please. When checking charging current with engine running, being 12v poss. earth, do I do what you say with the - neg. wire? also set on A 10, the markings on my meter are 2000h ? 20m, 200m, 10, oC. Thanks again for your help, Best regards, Tone.

Offline a10gf

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Re: Charging
« Reply #3 on: 31.05. 2009 18:59 »
f.ex. = for example

You can measure current by inserting the instrument on the - or the + connection, you'll get a reading either way, but it may show for example  -6A, then just swap the wires around on the instrument to get the positive reading, 6A.

the small m's = milli -volts or -amps, like 0,001 volt or 0,001 ampere. You need to find the bigger numbers, like 20 V for the voltage, and 10 A for the current. Otherwise you may fry the intrument fuses (or the instrument itself). In the owners manual for the instrument there may be some instructions as well.

Regarding charging (or decharging) current, the ammeter on the bike does the same as when you disconnect a battery pole and insert your instrument, they will then both be inserted in the battery's wiring path. The reading on your instrument should roughly match the reading on the bikes ammeter.
Study the wiring diagram for your bike, you'll see f.ex. the bike's ammeter is inserted between the control box and battery, thus either measuring drain or charging.

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Offline Tone

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Re: Charging
« Reply #4 on: 31.05. 2009 19:08 »
Thanks, i've just given it a try, when I rev it up it shows 0 00, so I guess the dynamo's nakered! Thanks again for your help.

Offline a10gf

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Re: Charging
« Reply #5 on: 31.05. 2009 19:18 »
Still many variables here... before blaming the dynamo, be sure your instrument and measuring setup is ok, you can check your instrument by measuring A directly across the + and - of a known good 1,5 v torchlight battery for a short instant, set the instrument to 10A (it's very common that an instrument's 10A circuit is gone due to some earlier connection error, like trying to measure voltage while the instrument is still set for 10A, sparks flying ;) Survives a torchlight 1,5 v, but not a car or motorcycle battery.

Then there's the regulator\control box and wiring to check. To test for output from the dynamo, see the Lucas \ BSA service sheets, and there has also been some topics here about it, search the forum. It's easy, just needs some wire bits and a light bulb see http://www.a7a10.net/BSA/E3L.htm

btw, on your bike's ammeter, shows anything at all with engine running? and what's the reading with lights on and engine not running.

e

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Offline Tone

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Re: Charging
« Reply #6 on: 31.05. 2009 19:48 »
When I turn the lights on with engine not running it shows a discharge on the ammeter (its one of those that you can't tell with engine running, bit like a windscreen wipper) I have rewired the bike and fitted a DVR2 regulator. In the week I will try the test on the meter and look at those sheets etc, thanks again, best regards, Tone.

Offline a10gf

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Re: Charging
« Reply #7 on: 31.05. 2009 19:51 »
Quote
I have rewired the bike and fitted a DVR2 regulator
Did it work before this job was done ?

Some detective work is often needed, you'll sort it all out in the end. Definitely try the dynamo bulb test, no light = defective, lights up = takes the dynamo out of the equation. Good luck, and post your findings.

e

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Richard

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Re: Charging
« Reply #8 on: 31.05. 2009 23:28 »
forgive me if I have missed something but if you set your meter to 20 volts DC and put the positive and common wires from the meter on to the respective terminals on the battery it should read 9presuming it is 12volt system)12 to 12.4 volts when you start the bike up on a fast tickover it should increase to about 13 volts or a little above that if the battery is fully charged try switching a light on and read the voltage with the engine not running and again with the engine running on fast tickover this will confirm wether your bike is charging.
Anyway below are some links that may prove to be helpful

http://www.edknet.de/Download/LUCAS%20GENERATOR.pdf
http://sterlingmotorworks.com/lucas_generator_
http://www.nanocontrols.co.uk/auto/v-reg2.htm
Richard

Offline a10gf

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Re: Charging
« Reply #9 on: 01.06. 2009 00:14 »
Good point, Richard,  I mentionned it (To check the voltage, use a high enough DC setting on your instrument, and connect the wires across f.ex. the battery to get a readout), you provided the exact procedure. But the voltage is just part of the charging, as you could get e.g. 13 v but at only 0,1 A, which would equal next to no charge, so checking the actual current should be done as well.

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Richard

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Re: Charging
« Reply #10 on: 01.06. 2009 06:45 »
Good morning bright and sunny here in Wiltshire
I agree with that a10gf,
hopefuly the links will give Tone some further guidence also they may be useful for others to keep for future reference.

Offline LJ.

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Re: Charging
« Reply #11 on: 01.06. 2009 09:13 »
Quote
Some detective work is often needed,

Quite right Erling! A nice ride out Saturday and on the way home I noticed no charge... Obvious thought was that armature dirty or worn down brushes, I investigated and notice armature turning with engine off?? turns out to be a broken drive chain! Hope to get a new one this morning, It was a good oppotunity to remove the dynamo and give a good general cleaning over. One of the brushes needed re soldering at the loop end.

Tone... Make yourself one of these, often a very handly little tool to use.

Click picture to enlarge.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red