Author Topic: Electronic ignition  (Read 1536 times)

Offline triangle

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Electronic ignition
« on: 25.10. 2017 19:38 »
Hi new to the forum but had  A10s for about 47 years  but not been used one since 1978 and the plunger since 2006.As the plunger is 65 years old i thought i would give it a birthday and use it again clean out carb and tank give it a kick or two nothing.When it was put in the back of shed 11 years ago ran perfect.Took out plugs no spark unscrew plug cap in dark shed pinprick of spark so clean up mag and points even worse so looked at price of mag rebuild and electronic ignition decided to go for electronic.(I have had it on old 750 hondas, and on a 74 bmw 750 and on the bmw 43years on gives a brilliant blue spark you can see on a sunny day.)Now the problem all fitted at 11/32 full advance it spits in the exhaust alter it by about a 1/16 on the slots and it spits back through the carb i wonder if anybody has any ideas and no i don't want to throw it away It is the wassell setup with the the polished mag conversion in their booklet they say 34 degrees full advance but i assume that is for the unit twins and i don't now how that converts degrees to fractions .HELP. Thanks Graham

Online Bsareg

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #1 on: 25.10. 2017 21:35 »
 Welcome to the forum. Might be a different set up if you have  manual or automatic advance
Helston, Cornwall C11,B40,B44 Victor,A10,RGS,M21,Rocket3,REBSA

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #2 on: 25.10. 2017 21:42 »
You’re jumping to the conclusion that it is ignition timing that is preventing your bike starting.

How are the valves and their clearances, the compression, the jets and passages of the carburettor, the battery voltage and continuity to the black box?

Having said all that, you do need a figure in degrees, to strobe time the engine once it starts.

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #3 on: 25.10. 2017 21:43 »
Welcome to the forum. Might be a different set up if you have  manual or automatic advance

It needs a solid drive, with no auto advance.

Online orabanda

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #4 on: 25.10. 2017 23:35 »
For the cast iron head, strobe time on full advance to 30 degrees BTDC; for the higher tuned alloy head engines 32 BTDC.

Online KiwiGF

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #5 on: 26.10. 2017 03:57 »
Hi new to the forum but had  A10s for about 47 years  but not been used one since 1978 and the plunger since 2006.As the plunger is 65 years old i thought i would give it a birthday and use it again clean out carb and tank give it a kick or two nothing.When it was put in the back of shed 11 years ago ran perfect.Took out plugs no spark unscrew plug cap in dark shed pinprick of spark so clean up mag and points even worse so looked at price of mag rebuild and electronic ignition decided to go for electronic.(I have had it on old 750 hondas, and on a 74 bmw 750 and on the bmw 43years on gives a brilliant blue spark you can see on a sunny day.)Now the problem all fitted at 11/32 full advance it spits in the exhaust alter it by about a 1/16 on the slots and it spits back through the carb i wonder if anybody has any ideas and no i don't want to throw it away It is the wassell setup with the the polished mag conversion in their booklet they say 34 degrees full advance but i assume that is for the unit twins and i don't now how that converts degrees to fractions .HELP. Thanks Graham

Hi, do the plugs or caps need changing for electronic? I have a BTH electronic mag and use plugs with a resistor, the mag (I think) needs plugs and caps without resistors (others will confirm this).
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #6 on: 26.10. 2017 18:36 »
I don’t think the Wassell ignition needs suppressor plug caps.

I fitted 5 kilo-ohm plug caps to mine because the GPS speedo didn’t like the interference.

The inductive rev counter seems less erratic with suppression too.

Offline triangle

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #7 on: 27.10. 2017 19:16 »
Hi sorry to be so long in answering it has a brand new 12 volt battery when the bike was laid up it ran faultlessly the valves are not sticking the carb has been cleaned it has new ngk plug caps i am not sure of the resistance  and  the atd unit is in good condition, the instruction sheet tells you to set it fully advanced.In the book BSA Twins there is a interview with H.Hopwood in the technical data it gives ingnition timing as 34 degrees (11/32) before BTDC with the points just opening.Thanks for the suggestions i hope to have another go over the weekend.Thanks again Graham

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #8 on: 27.10. 2017 20:09 »
the atd unit is in good condition

Like this?



You don’t use a centrifugal auto advance with Wassell ignition, or any decent electronic ignition.

Offline kiwipom

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #9 on: 27.10. 2017 21:47 »
hi TT, why not the use of ATD, cheers
A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.

War! what is it good for?Absolutely nothing, Edwin Star.
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Online bsa-bill

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #10 on: 28.10. 2017 09:51 »
Quote
A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.

Electronic ignition has sort of got it's own  A/R circuit built into it (and it's better), the mechanical unit would add an unwanted extra A/R
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline duTch

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #11 on: 28.10. 2017 11:47 »

 
Quote
Quote

    A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.


Electronic ignition has sort of got it's own  A/R circuit built into it (and it's better), the mechanical unit would add an unwanted extra A/R

   *conf2* yea had me there for a bit Bill, 'Specs-losers' strikes again... *smile*


Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #12 on: 28.10. 2017 13:58 »
Ha - see what you mean Dutch (pasted the wrong bit)

but I'm due an eye test right enough, apart from that I've been struggling of late seeing stuff until recently washed my glasses and found the outside surface kind of rough - then remembered spraying some bits in the garage without safety goggles - yep the penny dropped
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #13 on: 28.10. 2017 15:04 »
G'day triangle.
I have Boyer electronic on both my A7 plunger and A10RR+ and both use a solid (manual A/R) timing gear. The only accurate way to time them is with a strobe light. I have a degree disk attached to the crank marked in 5 degree increments. As orabanda said 30 degrees full advance, may go a little higher for higher octane fuel (98+) or a little less for higher compression (9.5+). Here is a chart to convert distance btdc to degrees, it's in mm so stroke = 84 rod length = 164.3  http://www.dansmc.com/mc_software2.htm
11/32" = 33.75 degrees, 5/16" = a tad over 32 degrees, 3/8" = 35.3 degrees.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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beezermacc

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Re: Electronic ignition
« Reply #14 on: 28.10. 2017 18:48 »
Occasionally I go on a forum about using lathes. You get chucked off if you say you need advice about Chinese lathes. Think about it!