Author Topic: Which EasyCap do I need?  (Read 1387 times)

Offline richard boys

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #15 on: 04.10. 2020 15:59 »
just had my mag rebuilt with a co4 easycap starts first kick

Offline richard boys

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #16 on: 27.10. 2020 11:58 »
 i decided to have the easy cap fitted; my mag had 20 years since last looked at and i knew i had issues! i sent it of to Paul in Bristol UK recommended by bright spark magnetos he rebuilt it rewound and fitted a co4 easy cap the bike starts first kick with much reduced effort on the kick start ,just come up from the shed feeling quite euphoric the charging system works ! new field coil and armature plus bearings brush's to dynamo and wired up a Wassel regulator to a new wiring loom can the day get any better ? i did remove the fuse before i left the shed  you cant be to careful !

Offline Speedy

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #17 on: 01.11. 2020 18:22 »
BTH are still making magnetos for the A10 ,they now have electronic advance and retard fitted so you don't need the handle bar lever anymore. They are based in  Milton Keynes in England. BTH Magneto components Ltd, 15 Haythorp Close, Downhead Park, Milton Keynes,  Buckinghamshire,  MK159 DD.  Email, weborders@bt-h.biz  Thhese are brand new items that can be  programmed.
Hope this will help  someone.

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #18 on: 01.11. 2020 20:12 »
Hi Speedy,
B.T.H who make the modern ignitions have nothing to do with the original BTH (British Thomson Hueston)

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online tomkilde

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #19 on: 14.06. 2021 19:20 »
Replacement parts for the "early" brass plate contact breaker assemblies are available but somewhat rare.  It seems like parts for the "late" steel plate assemblies are much easier to find, and I've also read that they are easier to adjust.  Rather than trying to restore it, I'm wondering if it might be worth the extra cost to replace my worn out, corroded old brass contact breaker assembly with a shiny new steel one.  Has anyone had experience with both and have a clear preference?
1958 BSA A10 Super Rocket

Online groily

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #20 on: 14.06. 2021 20:01 »
Even the later so-called low-inertia steel ones are getting harder for parts, and the quality of replica bits has been up and down. I don't like them as much as the earlier style for the reasons I repeat below  . . . originally under Minto's post about 'Points, does this look right? (qv https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=16251.0):

If in your travels you come across a decent brass type, of the earlier generation, I'd grab it.
They are in many people's view 'better' for four reasons:
first, the opening point and spring are the LT earth side so a kiss (of the spring blade againt the cam-ring) doesn't kill the spark;
secondly, the double spring blade of the brass types is gentler in operation than the steel equivalent;
thirdly the points gap stays in adjustment longer (as a rule) for not relying on friction on sliding bits.
Fourthly, quite often, the contacts mate a lot more squarely too.
And a fifth plus point is that you get the option of an auxiliary earth brush on the back face, which can help reduce the dimpling at the firing points of the mag that is caused on the armature drive end brass piece by return current through the main earth brush.

 . . .

 It's also worth knowing that if you come across a decent BTH anti-clockwise backplate off, say, a KC2, that'll work very nicely too. Main dimensions are the same, the integral keyway that sets the internal timing is in the same place and the design is better too. New complete BTH assemblies can be had (Lindsley again) - but you need a mortgage. A Bosch set will also serve and is well made - but the keyway will probably need suppressing and reforming in the right place, or the camring repositioning.


I can't think of anything that makes me think differently this evening. The thing with the brass item is the state of the pivot post for the opening point, and the hole it goes through. The original pillar was supposed to be 0.185" (memory, which can fade so don't kill me if wrong!) but they're often pretty worn. Kits usd to be available to replace them, which is a fiddly business. Haven't seen the kits for a bit, but a replacement can be made if it must be, a fraction oversize if necessary to reclaim the opening point.
Contacts can be grafted onto the fixed and opening sides if necessary too. Silver solder job. Thus rebuilt, the brass ones can have their life extended indefinitely.

So, I'd try to keep what you have. Dave Lindsley Magnetos in the UK may have some points, certainly worth asking as his stuff usually is decent.

If going 'steel', it is apparently the case that Grove Classics, the UK Velo specialists, have taken on the production and supply of parts and replica points etc. If so, and if the QC is OK, could be an OK option.

In terms of performance, the steel assemblies will often provide a snappier opening and closing of the points which is helpful at very low rpm (due to the heavier spring rate), but overall I prefer the brass version on all the counts mentioned. For what it isn't worth!

Bill

Online tomkilde

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Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Reply #21 on: 14.06. 2021 21:55 »
Thanks Bill.  I will try refurbishing my brass assembly first.  I found a source here in the US with NOS Lucas replacement points for a reasonable cost.  My biggest concern right now is getting the old parts out without damaging the backer plate - most of the tiny steel fasteners are completely seized and are not responding to penetrating oil.
1958 BSA A10 Super Rocket