Winter paint refresh

[tlmark]

I've been planing on doing something about the paint on my golden SR. it always seemed "soft"
well that's the best way I can describe it I once used some rachet staps on the rear mudguard stays
and the straps dent or rucked up the paint
and then with having now fitted the new India tank it no longer matches.
I pulled the rear mudguard off, as there was what I thought was a rust hole under a sticker.
but it turns out it wasn't rust but a crack...

In the filler that covers the whole thing as you can see in the pics below, there seems to be a 1mm to 2mm covering over the whole thing. around the bolt holes, it is either is squashed or cracked. 

[RichardL]

I'm wondering what that mudguard looks like on the back side, like, are there some obvious dents that have been filled without being beaten out?

Richard L.

[tlmark]

No mate nothing visible on the inside

[bsa-bill]

maybe just too many coats (too thick)

[Swarfcut]

 A classic case of just too many coats. Like tree rings there could 10 different paint films (coats) on there. No wonder its so soft, filler and paint aren't exactly structural components.
  First base coat in red is reminiscent of Bondo or Penetrox Primers from yesteryear, air drying solvent based, very popular with amateur and professionals back in the day. These days the modern equivalent is used by guys fabricating structural steel.

 My guess is that its been done a good few times in Cellulose, so relatively soft and fragile. Thick filler is a recipe for disaster, cracking if under pressure, around bolt holes etc. Thinner paint films are relatively flexible when first applied and the guards mounted, so avoiding the problem.

 How you proceed is your choice....spot repair and hope for the best, a new/replacement guard finished with modern two pack paint /lacquer system, or strip this guard to bare metal, fearing the worst  and being prepared for structural repairs, and a finish to suit.

 Heating the paint gently with a hot air gun will soften any filler underneath enough for the whole lot to be easily peeled off with an old chisel, far less hazardous and less chance of damage than attacking it with flap wheels and grinders as you explore what's under the paint. 

Swarfy.

[Swarfcut]

I know you like pictures.......

 Late model rear mudguard, arrow head stays, so no indent for the stays. Powder coated over rust pits. A good basic pressing with a split at the front, poorly repaired, but an excellent undamaged rear end, plus a little corrosion from  water trapped under the seat mount. No surprises...the filler was bulging like a festering boil. Easy fix.

 Major rust cut away, integrity maintained, and a quick spray with white acrylic primer to prevent further rot until time, inclination and better weather for body repairs come around.

Swarfy

[Swarfcut]

Whoops, wrong one. Try this.

[tlmark]

I started to remove the many many layers. Solid-looking metal underneath so far, although the 2 grey patches in one pic do look a bit dodgy

[tlmark]

I got most of the Filler off of the rear guard and it's pretty much perfect, which is odd to then cover up the surface.
I was expecting some rust pitting?  there is some more cleaning off along the rolled edges but then its tidy it up and repaint.

[tlmark]

It's has taken an age but I've finally finished the paint on my Golden Super rocket 
it fought me on every single step    but I'm pretty happy with the result, it 10 times better than old "soft" and battered paint.
I gave myself an 8 out of 10

I bought a decal pack from ebay that still need to be applied I also treated her to some new (yet to be fitted) silencers as mine are scratched
So hopefully if we are ever let out of lockdown before the nice weather is gone 

Are there any guides for the placement of the decals this set even has 2 "Made in England" decals never seen those before?

[bsa-bill]

nice work, having done it myself I know how rewarding it can be.
Decals/transfers - one thing I found was you need to have the bike level, ie if you put them on when it's on the centre stand they wont be right when in the riding position