Not wishing to rain on the parade, lifting the engine on the barrel fins carries the risk of fin damage and also sudden failure, which could be a bit awkward with a dexterous digit underneath. However, it is a really novel way of doing it in one go, so is well worth note. Maybe the rocker box bolts offer a better means of attachment. Both Ford and Vauxhall attached lifting eyes to relatively weak 8mm manifold studs, so a twin cylinder alloy crankcase engine should present no problem. My preference would be a simple webbing sling.
It amazes me that professional engine builders use engine stands that support complete units on the flywheel bolts! So the strength of threads must be up to it. Like RD, in earlier years I could just about manage a Cavalier, Astra or Ford Crossflow single handed, without the flywheel, and there is a knack. Fully dressed, it was a definite two man job, no point being a hero.
In an idle moment I chanced upon
https://engineproblem.com.au/engine-problem/big-end/
Reckon Musky wrote it, contains a lot of useful stuff often overlooked when building motors.
Swarfy.
I bought a cheap chinese car engine stand, supposedly capable of 750kg (alledgedly yank v8 capable....), it wasn’t really designed for my ‘52 british car 6cyl engine but i got it bolted onto it (albeit “backwards”) and it actually had plenty of strength left.. pic attached.....looked pretty dodgy but worked just fine. 4 3/8” bolts were attached to the engine but only two were under any tension. All 4 bolts were theoretically in shear.
My modern triumph had just 2x6mm bolts in the swing arm for the rear wheel stand “bobbins”, it didnt look right at all, but worked just fine ...i guess sometimes “eyeballing” it is not enough.
