Petrol and Oil Tank lining

[jhg1958]

So my oil  tank is almost ready for the painters. There is a bit of rust internally not much really. Also a little rust in the petrol tank but again not much that I can see.

I am loathed to put anything in the oil tank as ensuring all traces of oil are removed will be a nightmare. Plus having bits of coating floating around in either the petrol tank or oil would keep me awake. Mind you rust is a bit of a killer too.

If I was to line either, is POR15 the best product?  If so has any had any experience in using it?

The filter on the oil tank (call that a filter?) dropped off when I removed the cap.  As I plan to put a filter kit on anyway is it worth replacing?

John

[Swarfcut]

Petrol tank looks far better than some. Sealers are usually used where the tank has extensive internal rusting and pinholing. This one looks OK for now. Cheap  inline  fuel filters trap any major detritis and give a visual indication of what's what. If sealing is eventually required it can be done at a later and more convenient time.

 Oiltank gauze filter is essential, this is the only filter on the supply side. The tank outlet is above the bottom of the tank, heavier particles sediment out, the gauze preventing any larger  but lighter ones being carried over. Filter on the return is of benefit, but even washing out the tank out as best you can will certainly keep things nice and clean to start with. Lining the oiltank is probably unnecessary on a bike in regular use...the oil will prevent rust. Worst case is another oil tank..... a relatively cheap replacement.  We used to drop a magnet into the tank, amazing what it picks up after a rebuild.  Modern sump plates come with magnetic drain plugs, worth having to keep the nasties out of the oil.

 Swarfy.

[JulianS]

I dont think oil tanks are worth treating - on swinging arm type if they leak it is usually from the seam and that is usually due to a split from overtightening the fixing.

[chaterlea25]

Hi,
You can use electrolysis to remove any remaining rust, Google the process it's simple to do
Citric acid or other proprietary rust neutralisers is another way.
Wash the tanks out well with boiling water
This will heat the tank enough to evaporate  any remaining water once emptied , add WD40 or similar and swill as found to prevent flash rusting

John

[Peter in Aus]

Anyone used this product from Tasmania Australia  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ_uQy4Aru8  thinking of using it a tank for my A7 project that is quite rusty in side. (also has a bullet hole in it, fix that)
Peter

[sean]

I have had good results with caswell tank liner on gas tanks I wouldnt line the oil tanks its full of oil anyway Vinegar for 2 weeks will kill off any rust but dont leave it sitting around too long as flash rust will begin ......phosphoric acid used in body shop as metal prep will neutralise the rust

[jhg1958]

I finally got round to cleaning out the rust from my oil tank.  Although there is a lot of information on the internet I was still unsure how much critic acid to use or how long it would take.  So this is how I did it and some photos to show how effective it was.

- I bought food grade citric acid from eBay.
- used a pressure washer to clean out the oil tank.
- Leak tested with water and repaired a small leak on the seam
- see two photos of the rust inside the tank.
- dissolved 100 g of citric acid in 1/2 litre warm water. (easier to get it to dissolve) see photo
- sealed up the oil tank and put the citric acid solution in and filled up to the top with cold water total 3l.
- checked to after 1 hour, 2 hours, overnight and eventually stopped after 24 hours.
- washed out the tank with water 2 to 3 times shaking vigorously each time.
- washed out the tank with 'Flash' surface cleaner shaking vigorously.  This was very effective at removing the residues.
- washed out the tank with water 4 to 5 times shaking vigorously each time and left to drip dry at the end.
- washed out the tank with 1/4 litre of methanol twice.  This mixes with the water and makes it easier to remove.
- left to drip dry for 30 mins
- dried out the tank with an electric paint stripper (I did not dare to borrow my wife's hair drier but that would do)
- took some more photos.

The tanks is now on a heater to dry before before painting. I am very pleased with the result.  I would recommend using citric acid and about 30g per litre and leaving overnight.  This was winter, but the shed is heated if not hot. the results maybe quicker of kept warm.

John   
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[Alex kettle]

That looks like a great result there and a good write up. I’ve got a spare Petrol tank that looks similar to your oil tank inside so I’ll give this a go.
Cheers 👍🏻

[Joolstacho]

'lining' an oil tank is madness IMHO.
Linings commonly de-laminate, and could easily block the oil supply.
It's a last resort for petrol tanks too.

[berger]

joolstacho  I did immense preparation with a ally oil tank and thought I was doing well with it, but after 3ish years I noticed it peeling away in a big strip ,luckily it wasn't lots of little bits. then I built another tank and got it welded up. onto another coating thing my neighbour has a window cleaner who has made the flat roof leek by standing on the pebbles and treading them in. we had both roofs done at the same time to lessen any chance of a leak on the  divide of the houses. my side is perfect , I don't let people stand directly on it , not even me! she had a man who can come to seal it with his magic tin of coating, it is now peeling off and blowing in the wind 10 months after the expensive [ "this will do it love you don't need a new roof with this"--- gypsy type sales pitch } I don't trust many things that claim to do the job---- only gorilla glue 

[jhg1958]

Oil tank update.

More washing out to prepare for the paint shop. Now I have noticed the the oil return pipe ends at the bottom of the oil tank.  I keep reading about you guys checking for the oil returning to the tank to confirm oil flow.  So I suspect the line should bend upwards and stop above the normal oil level. 

I have a question.  Do I really need this?  I suspect I would have to scrap the oil tank as it would be a difficult repair.

John

[berger]

I had the same with an old ally tank, it means the hot oil will be first back to the engine if its snapped off at the bottom. not ideal

[Peter in Aus]

The oil tank can be repaired by removing the back of the oil tank, carefully grinding off just enough of the welded lip holding the  tank together, repair and weld back together.
Peter
PS That is for the earlier model oil tank. The later ones are a bit more difficult, but can be don.