Author Topic: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)  (Read 1647 times)

Online berger

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #15 on: 26.04. 2021 00:13 »
yes a good ball seat should be enough , I left mine for 5 months oil level still the same.

Online groily

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #16 on: 26.04. 2021 07:15 »
Yup again. Replaced mine when engine opened up for other reasons and no problem since  (only bike Ii've had here with gear oil pump without a tap and mag cut-out in fact).
Bill

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #17 on: 26.04. 2021 09:17 »
    The other way for oil to reach the sump is a weep from the oil pump. The  drive spindle has no seal, later A65 pumps have an O ring here. Wear on the spindle housing, where the spindle runs, offers a pathway. Loose and weeping backplates, poor gaskets and mating faces plus porous castings all contribute. An expensive new pump would be expected to fix these shortcomings, but it is a pricey way to go.

  The oil pump cavity fills, oil vents to the sump through the timing bush clearance and the keyhole in the crankcase.  But a poorly performing ball valve is by far the number one suspect, cheap but awkward to replace on a standard engine. An in line tap is a simple cure, but carries the risk we all know....

  Another aspect is that on long term storage with a wet sump the crank will be bathed in oil and the bores will get a good wetting from oil spun from the flywheel. A drain plug sump plate offers a quick method of clearing the sump, but for some reason is not universally popular.

 Swarfy.

Offline RoyC

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #18 on: 26.04. 2021 09:26 »
yes a good ball seat should be enough , I left mine for 5 months oil level still the same.

I used to have no trouble when the original BSA ball was fitted but it was rusty looking so I changed it for a SRM one because it was chrome. IDIOT   *problem*
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Offline Greybeard

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #19 on: 26.04. 2021 09:49 »
Am I wrong in believing the only way for the oil is through the ball\spring valve, so (teoretically...) a well seated ball with a good spring and the problem should (nearly) be a non issue .
That is my understanding.
Greybeard (Neil)
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Online KiwiGF

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #20 on: 26.04. 2021 12:10 »
Am I wrong in believing the only way for the oil is through the ball\spring valve, so (teoretically...) a well seated ball with a good spring and the problem should (nearly) be a non issue .
That is my understanding.

But see the prior post on that, because the ball/spring is AFTER the pump in the supply side isn’t it? So the pump itself is a source of leaks of oil to the sump?
New Zealand

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Offline fido

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #21 on: 26.04. 2021 16:41 »
   
  Another aspect is that on long term storage with a wet sump the crank will be bathed in oil and the bores will get a good wetting from oil spun from the flywheel. A drain plug sump plate offers a quick method of clearing the sump, but for some reason is not universally popular.

 Swarfy.

Yes, my A7 had been fitted with such a drain plug by the previous owner but I've not had a problem with wet sumping anyway.

Offline bikerboy

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #22 on: 03.05. 2021 19:47 »
I drilled a hole in the sump and welded a 3/8 nut inside it. Then a short 3/8 bolt and a copper washer means I can drain the sump very easily. It beat spending £40 on a sump with a drain on it