Might a later A7 (swinging arm) or B31 plunger rear mud guard fit a plunger A7?

[Big_Ben]

Hi Peeps

My bike ('49 plunger A7) has a meh universal mud guard fitted. It isn't great but it's OK.

I might have a chance on an original  A7 swinging arm rear mudguard or a B31 plunger (pattern) part.

Neither are handy to offer up.

Does anyone know if they might be good marriages?

It's absolutely not urgent, so I might just play the long game for an exact match.

Thanks,

Poppy Ben 

[Rex]

Wouldn't the plunger item have the hinged rear section?

[Big_Ben]

If my reading is correct then yes I think so to be original, but I'm not bothered at all about it being 100% standard.

So the question is more whether it would fit without major bodgery?

[muskrat]

G'day Poppy.
The B3 would be my choice of the two. For ease of rear wheel removal and looks almost original. The front "ears" would need to be removed. Some of the mounting holes may differ but can be over come.
Cheers

[Big_Ben]

Thank you, much appreciated! (as always)

[Big_Ben]

So.... An update.

Seems the one my friend has is a battered original from a B33. I haven't yet seen images, but condition was such that the restorers elected to fit a new one from India.

Any comments on how the India ones pan out?

[RDfella]

Bought front and rear guards for my '58 S/A GF from India. Can't fault them.

[Swarfcut]

 Avoid butchering the S/A mudguard. The deeper valance will cause problems with adaption to fit and aesthetic result, plus the blade is of more value to someone else.

   Musky is on the money here, but any B or M plunger blade, original or repro will be an easier knife and fork fit. They may have differing brackets and minor differences, but the pressings are substantially the same across the  A,B,M Ranges.  Lack of a hinged rear section as on some repo's is easily overcome by a convenient brick under one leg of the main stand. This raises the bike enough to get the wheel out, and is far quicker even if you have the hinged section. Preserves that concours paintwork.......

 Swarfy.

[Big_Ben]

Thank you all.

[Minto]

Flippin ‘eck Swarfy, how the hell do you pull the bike up onto the centre stand with a brick under it? I nearly ended up in A&E the other day trying to get mine on the stand on the drive.

[Swarfcut]

 Jase, Easy peasy for a man of my physique. Bike on stand... Place brick next to stand foot, then ease bike away from you so it's on the front wheel and the other stand foot. Casually kick brick under raised stand foot, lower bike onto brick. This is the hooligans method, and yes, it's not good for stands, but saves a lot of hassle.

   As for getting it on the stand, my knee to foot measurement just fits between the stand on the ground and the backstay by the saddle spring mount. So a dexterous shove with the Achilles Tendon and a bit of a lift on the handle and up it clanks. Hurts the knee a bit.....

 Swarfy.

[BSA_54A10]

Rigid plunger & swing arm guards all have different mounting holes
So you ar either going to do some welding or have some blanking plugs fitted
Note what the others have said about the rear hinge or removable section.
It is impossible to get the wheel out with a swing arm cuard unless you lif the rear end really high or lay the bike over on it's side
Neither are fun to do on the side of the road with a flat back tyre