Author Topic: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s  (Read 1646 times)

Online Billybream

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Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« on: 20.04. 2024 06:16 »
Hi.
Fitted new Yuasa Y4-6 6v 4ah valve regulated sealed lead-acid battery, measured 6.6 v prior to fitting, connected up to bike, lights came on great, running full LED lighting  set up via DVR2. After starting bike and making a few fueling adjustments, and running for about 10 minutes, switched lights on great, showing charge on ammeter, switched bike off and lights also died. Am I just unlucky and have a dud battery or am I missing something by using these compact batteries with my system. I rang with similar Lucas type battery last year and after winter layup the battery would not hold charge via trickle battery charger so replacement fitted, these are low cost items £10.00.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Online limeyrob

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #1 on: 20.04. 2024 10:13 »
Could it be overcharging?  Many years ago with an A65 I took the battery off and fitted a huge capacitor.  It worked surprisingly well.  Are you running the mag still, if so the battery is not doing much.
Slough 59 GF/SR

Online Rex

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #2 on: 20.04. 2024 11:21 »
Older style lead acid batteries seem to be poor quality these days, so when I ran them (I use sealed gel mat batteries now) I would be renewing  every Springtime.

At least with sealed batteries (which aren't much dearer than L-A batteries) you don't get acid sprayed over the silencer, tyre and rear mudguard.

Online Worty

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #3 on: 20.04. 2024 11:51 »
Older style lead acid batteries seem to be poor quality these days, so when I ran them (I use sealed gel mat batteries now) I would be renewing  every Springtime.

At least with sealed batteries (which aren't much dearer than L-A batteries) you don't get acid sprayed over the silencer, tyre and rear mudguard.

Oh my God have I had problems like these. *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *pull hair out*  Originally had a lead-acid which was duff and boiled over stripping the chrome off one of the silencers. *problem* *problem* *angry* *angry*  Went for AGM type, ended up with two of these being duff which were returned - third one lasted a few years on and off (if you forgive the pun). *roll* *dunno*  It has recently failed completely with a charge error saying the charger voltage doesn't match the battery voltage and no power readings at all at the poles.  Replaced with a 6v 8ah battery - everything works and appears to show charge at the ammeter.  I'm still running the maggie, so will see how things go.  Don't think it's overcharging as the last AGM lasted a good while over some big rides out.  These bikes seem very sensitive when the battery is failing.  I suppose that the ammeter will not record incoming and outgoing charge to the battery if it is completely dead!

One reason for early failure may be vibration.  Before Bergs rebuilt my motor, it was like riding a pneumatic drill, now it's nice and smooth. *good3* *good3* *beer* *beer* *beer*
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Online KiwiGF

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #4 on: 20.04. 2024 13:26 »
I use Motobatt brand in old bikes, but with a one or two year life expectation. They don’t seem to like the lucas charging system either with or without Dvr2, or maybe its the vibes  *dunno*. They will carry on well after the fully charged voltage indicates they are ferked though, which is not a problem if you are not relying on them for ignition. Ordinary lead acid I have found to be a waste of money.

In my modern bikes (electric start obviously, and 3x the cost for the battery) my expectations is much longer, from memory the last Motobatt battery in my ktm lasted 6 years, goldwing 8 years.
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Online limeyrob

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #5 on: 20.04. 2024 13:47 »
This has reminded me, when I had the Harley I bought a flash AGM "premium" battery and it lasted about a week longer than the warranty. Got replaced by a bargain job that lasted just the same.  I've just fitted a total loss system with a LiPo on anther bike, I don't like total loss but the bike is modified and there's no where for the dynamo. With LEDs I'm hoping for 2 hours lights, ign is mag.
Slough 59 GF/SR

Offline RogerSB

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #6 on: 20.04. 2024 13:52 »
In my A10 from 30-12-17 to 15-6-22 I used a Motobatt MB9U, AGM, 11Ah, CCA 140, L: 136mm  x  W: 76mm  x  H: 133/158mm. 2 yr guarantee.

Since 15-6-22 I'm using a Powerline YB9-B, AGM, 12V, 9Ah, CCA 95, L: 136, W: 76, H: 139. 1 yr guarantee.

I found both good. The Motobatt started to loose its charge fairly quickly at the end, but lasted 5 1/2 years.

I also have 6v Powerline in my Velocette LE and it amazes me how minute voltage is lost over a period of weeks without any use. Strangely the 12v one in my A10 loses more - but still good.

I opted for the Powerline because I prefer the nut and bolt connection arrangement, as opposed to the connectors on the Motobatt.

Rog

1960 Golden Flash

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #7 on: 20.04. 2024 23:29 »
I have a cheap sealed 4.5 AH battery on my Flash with an RB 107 regulator.
It has been in service for a number of years and holds a charge even though the bike sees little use these days.

Online jhg1958

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #8 on: 21.04. 2024 10:57 »
Roger
I see in your photos that you have a bolt in the frame just behind the tank.  I was wondering what the hole was for. Can you enlighten me with its function.

When to took the seat off for the service I was dismayed that the battery had shook loose throwing one of the bolts. I have returned it lovingly wrapped in packaging. Amy bright ideas of how to stop the battery vibrating free would welcome.

John
1961 Golden Flash S/Arm

Online Worty

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #9 on: 21.04. 2024 11:08 »
I long abandoned the metal strap after losing the whole lot after a long ride and finding the battery had bounced all over the place.  Now I use an old, cut down leather belt which is threaded through the bottom slots of the battery tray.  After punching out a couple more holes on the belt, I put a piece of foam rubber on top of the rubber tray, duck tape some 90 degree cardboard padding to the battery, put an old piece of narrow car radiator pipe on top of the battery and tighten the belt as much as I possible can.

The foam rubber and rubber tray help the battery to not slip, the radiator pipe on top helps to prevent against upward movement and vibration, and the cardboard padding is there just to protect the battery casing in the event it does slip (which it never has).  I really like the belt arrangement, as you can easily adjust it to any size of battery.
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Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #10 on: 21.04. 2024 11:15 »
 Offcuts of expanded polystyrene packaging should do for now. Builders' skip a good source if you have none to hand. Use to build a battery box, easy duck tape codge. Needs to be firm enough for the battery straps to hold it nice and tight. This will also cushion the battery from vibration.

 Swarfy.

Offline RogerSB

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #11 on: 21.04. 2024 12:44 »
Roger
I see in your photos that you have a bolt in the frame just behind the tank.  I was wondering what the hole was for. Can you enlighten me with its function.

Hi John, Its a BSA built-in sidecar mounting point.  It's shaped with two flat sides so the fitting that goes in it can't turn. I just bolted the penny washer in place to cover it - I don't know why - one of the silly things I seem to do. Here's a picture of the fitting that fits in the hole. The extension with a hole on the end is to attach a sidecar top rear arm. Even Ben (at Watsonian Sidecars) didn't know what the hole was for when I was looking around for the correct fitting and I showed him a photo of it.

As for securing battery: I use the original metal strap that clips into the two slots, front and rear, at the bottom.
I place something between it and the top of the battery simply to prevent damage to the battery casing when it's tightened down. Personally I've not had a problem with any battery I've used moving . . . not that I've noticed anyway.

(Edit): Maybe size of battery makes a difference  *dunno2*.

Rog.

1960 Golden Flash

Offline RogerSB

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #12 on: 21.04. 2024 13:09 »
Here's the built-in bottom rear sidecar mounting.
Rog.

1960 Golden Flash

Online Billybream

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #13 on: 04.05. 2024 20:57 »
Fitted new replacement 6vdc 4ah gel type battery, fully charged, lights on, all LED, start engine ammeter almost off the + scale, swith off , return to bike after an 1hr, switch on lights, and battery is completely flat, start engine and at 2000rpm, ammeter is again off the + scale. Running belt drive dynamo and DV2R reg, any idea,s, I suspect DV2R is cooked
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Online Worty

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Re: Sealed lead-acid battery woe,s
« Reply #14 on: 04.05. 2024 21:10 »
Fitted new replacement 6vdc 4ah gel type battery, fully charged, lights on, all LED, start engine ammeter almost off the + scale, swith off , return to bike after an 1hr, switch on lights, and battery is completely flat, start engine and at 2000rpm, ammeter is again off the + scale. Running belt drive dynamo and DV2R reg, any idea,s, I suspect DV2R is cooked

I would definitely look to that as your issue!  Having said that, new batteries can be duff too and cause untold issues (because of the assumption that being new, they should work fine).  I've had about four duff batteries from new, the last one lasted several years with no issues.
Current Bikes😎
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Past Bikes👍
'49 B31
'59 BMW R60
Yam FS1-E, YB100, RS100, RD200DX,250DX,350B, XS750
MZ250