Hello Sakura,
searching the forum for certain topics, you always find hundreds of other highly interesting topics ... a time consuming habit and highly interesting ...

Now, I found this thread - Sakura, I hope my post is still interesting for you as I thought, maybe graphically checking the difference of a one mm longer carillo conrod compared to the standard A10 one in terms of the BTDC discussion. Do the same, what the crank, the conrod and the gudgeon pin do. Have a look yourself at the attached pdf.
black = carillo rod at 8,73mm (11/32) BTDC => 33,8°
green = std A10 rod at 8,73mm (11/32) BTDC => 33,7°
Just for comparison the 5/16 value
magenta = std A10 rod at 7,938mm (5/16) BTDC => 32,1°
I had the same problem during my A10 restoration and found this procedure in a book and it helped me to find the degree value I wanted to know. In general, with this procedure you can convert a given BTDC value for any engine setup from mm to degrees and vice versa. All you need are basic things from school (ruler, protractor, pair of compasses (?), pen), but it is recommendable to use the doubled scale to get it more accurate. Have fun.
In the end, I just managed to find the value roughly and with Mr. Orabandas slotted mag flange tip I managed to get it right, means, I am happy with a first or second kick starter, cold or warm and I have no need for the 100% best performance out of the engine, although thinking about the masterpiece investigation from Orabanda "dynoing a dynosaur" and his other posts to this subject ... hm ... maybe ...
Best regards, Manfred