Author Topic: BSA A10 ignition  (Read 9493 times)

Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #30 on: 21.07. 2020 20:47 »
Doesn't time fly.  Recently having some mag issues and came across Runtronic CDI ignition as a possible replacement for my mag.  Started to look at timing curves, ATD advance and static timing.  Found it had been covered before for different reasons but just slipped my mind.  This has made interesting re-reading and shown how valuable the search facility is.  Excellent source of information.
Thanks to everyone who posted.
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Offline muskrat

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #31 on: 21.07. 2020 21:01 »
G'day Keith.
One day I'd like to try the Dyna 2000ip in the Cafe. It is fully programmable with 4 advance curves but can program my own curve with the laptop, rev limiter (I need that!) and records all the info for download.
Cheers
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #32 on: 21.07. 2020 21:08 »
G'day Keith.
One day I'd like to try the Dyna 2000ip in the Cafe. It is fully programmable with 4 advance curves but can program my own curve with the laptop, rev limiter (I need that!) and records all the info for download.
Cheers
Oooch! That sound like Rocket Science to me. Just want something which simple, reliable uses veery little electricity and little space.  Looks interesting http://www.jeperformance.biz?  I think I am an analogue guy in a digital world!

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Offline muskrat

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #33 on: 21.07. 2020 21:31 »
G'day Keith.
Yes the Runtronic sounds great for a std or close to bike.
I need a bit more on the Cafe as with the Boyer that's on it I still get pinging under hard acceleration (every time I ride LOL). If I retard enough to eliminate the pinging the performance drops considerably and she overheats.
On the A7 plunger the Boyer is great.
The Dyna 2Ki is designed for HD's but I could adapt. I put one on a mates Evo and was amazed at the performance. http://www.dynaonline.com/products/harley-davidson/dyna-2ki.aspx
Cheers 
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beezermacc

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #34 on: 22.07. 2020 07:58 »
 
Cheers
[/quote]
Oooch! That sound like Rocket Science to me. Just want something which simple, reliable uses veery little electricity and little space. 
[/quote]
…. a magneto maybe?
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #35 on: 22.07. 2020 08:16 »

Cheers
Oooch! That sound like Rocket Science to me. Just want something which simple, reliable uses veery little electricity and little space. 
[/quote]
…. a magneto maybe?
[/quote]
Excellent observation.  Even simple things are complicated if not under stood or familiar enough with them.  Would be simpler if there was consensus about solving a specific issue but that rarely happens.   Hey ho!  Now to sort out clutch slip.  Off to read those threads.  Original clutch worked well for years but SRM one hasn’t.  Progress? 
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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #36 on: 22.07. 2020 09:06 »
Just a little word of warning if fitting a Runtronics.
It throws a cluster spark which means that no matter what the cylinder is going to fire.
A customer fitted one to his T100 and found it to be overheating due to running lean.
HE also found a big increase in Hp to the point that the clutch could not cope.
Now this was not a std bike as he was into Vintage Moto Cross & Trials so lots of revs with little cooling breeze
HE converted about a dozen more and the singles did not seem to have the same problem but he went up a jet size or two right from the start.
There is a mounting package offerred by a different mob for the Runtronics specifically for British alternator bikes ( natually no longer fitted ) which had both a arc and a radial slot for adjustments .
What people forget when they fit them is positioning the sensor closer to the magnets also advances the timing so you need to be able to rotate as well as alter the radial space.
FWIW he used 5 NiCd C cells to power the Runtronics which gave around 17 hours running time
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #37 on: 22.07. 2020 10:36 »
Just a little word of warning if fitting a Runtronics.
It throws a cluster spark which means that no matter what the cylinder is going to fire.
A customer fitted one to his T100 and found it to be overheating due to running lean.
HE also found a big increase in Hp to the point that the clutch could not cope.
Now this was not a std bike as he was into Vintage Moto Cross & Trials so lots of revs with little cooling breeze
HE converted about a dozen more and the singles did not seem to have the same problem but he went up a jet size or two right from the start.
There is a mounting package offerred by a different mob for the Runtronics specifically for British alternator bikes ( natually no longer fitted ) which had both a arc and a radial slot for adjustments .
What people forget when they fit them is positioning the sensor closer to the magnets also advances the timing so you need to be able to rotate as well as alter the radial space.
FWIW he used 5 NiCd C cells to power the Runtronics which gave around 17 hours running time
Interesting and appreciate the post.  Lots to consider before going that route.  What is the difference between "cluster of sparks" and "wasted sparks"?  I understand Runtronic gives multiple sparks at "tickover" and thought used wasted spark through the rest of the range.  Sounds like changing one set of problems for another?  Also, I have not been able to clarify what the advance curve is. 
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Offline muskrat

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #38 on: 22.07. 2020 10:46 »
G'day Keith.
Wasted park means it sparks on the exhaust stroke as well. Most if not all electronic ignitions on twins and fours do this.
Cheers
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #39 on: 22.07. 2020 11:07 »
G'day Keith.
Wasted park means it sparks on the exhaust stroke as well. Most if not all electronic ignitions on twins and fours do this.
Cheers
That's what I thought.  I didn't understand if  "cluster" meant the same.  Thanks
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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #40 on: 23.07. 2020 09:43 »
It meas exactly what it says. you get several sparks one after another.
It was designed for model aircraft where the cylinder has to fire every time without fail
So you get a rapid group of sparks rather than a single one.
Drove the induction tacho crazy
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #41 on: 23.07. 2020 15:22 »
Just a little word of warning if fitting a Runtronics.
It throws a cluster spark which means that no matter what the cylinder is going to fire.
A customer fitted one to his T100 and found it to be overheating due to running lean.
HE also found a big increase in Hp to the point that the clutch could not cope.
Now this was not a std bike as he was into Vintage Moto Cross & Trials so lots of revs with little cooling breeze
HE converted about a dozen more and the singles did not seem to have the same problem but he went up a jet size or two right from the start.
There is a mounting package offerred by a different mob for the Runtronics specifically for British alternator bikes ( natually no longer fitted ) which had both a arc and a radial slot for adjustments .
What people forget when they fit them is positioning the sensor closer to the magnets also advances the timing so you need to be able to rotate as well as alter the radial space.
FWIW he used 5 NiCd C cells to power the Runtronics which gave around 17 hours running time
"HE also found a big increase in Hp to the point that the clutch could not cope."  That sounds a very effective way of tuning.  How does that happen?
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Offline edboy

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #42 on: 23.07. 2020 21:46 »
interestingly some single prop aeroplanes have a shower of sparks mag for easy starting. unfortunately its only one mag and if that fails the other mag will not start the plane and the right type of mag has to be ordered. catches owners  and techs out.
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Offline KeithJ

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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #43 on: 24.07. 2020 18:38 »
Just reduced the plug gap on my SR to 0.012".  Why does it take less of a swing on the kick start to start it?  Does that indicate a mag isn't working as it should?
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Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Reply #44 on: 24.07. 2020 19:36 »
  Does that indicate a mag isn't working as it should?

It indicates that something isn’t at its best,  but if you’re getting by with a small plug gap, you’re getting by.
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