Pattern parts strike aaaaagain! Fork seal holders, ugh!

[CheeserBeezer]

Here we go again! I was helping a mate fit some new stanchions and had difficulty removing one of the seal holders. This is not unusual but, in this case, the seal holders hadn't been on very long so they should have come off quite easily, one did, one didn't. I found that the tool I was using (correct tool with two teeth on the end of a tube) kept skipping out of the slots in the seal holder. As well as skipping out, they were getting damaged, i.e. bending inwards so that they were 'catching' on the stanchions when withdrawing the tool. I asked my mate to look away whilst I applied heat and got the Stilsons out. Remarkably, this worked and hardly damaged the seal holders at all. My mate's bike isn't a show bike so a few shallow teeth marks didn't bother him. On investigating the seal holder, once removed, it became obvious why I was having problems. The slots in the seal holder had been cut so there wasn't a straight edge for the teeth on the tool to engage with. In fact the slots were half moon shape so the teeth on the tool were being forced to bend inwards rather than engage with a straight edge necessary to assist with the removal of the seal holder. In future, when fitting new holders, I'll make sure that the slots are the correct shape and file a straight edge on them if necessary. I've completely kn4ckered up my removal tool, I wonder if the suppliers of the seal holders will compensate me for it? Dream on.......!

[muskrat]

G'day Andrew.
I know what you mean. Many years ago I bought a pair of stainless fork seal holders. The thread was so tight I had to use heat to get them on. They are now a nice straw color  .
The pattern parts problem is across the board of all makes & models. Parts bought recently for a 81 XV750 are going back.
Cheers

[Rex]

I bought a pair of stainless seal holders for the A7 and the thread was impossibly tight.
A hour with the fine grinding paste had them on a treat though.
Some years back I bought a pair or repro seal holders from TMS. They looked OK but the chrome peeled off like sunburnt skin under  hand pressure during tightening.
At least they took them back and refunded the money, unlike Feked, who won't.

[Worty]

Could I suggest a dedicated thread to sources of items that are of good, proven, quality.  TMS certainly used to be a decent place, but if they're buying their stock from India, it may not be of OM quality!!

I have no idea where to buy from that guarantees authenticity and quality.  At present, I take my chances with Ebay with the knowledge that they probably sell the same stuff as the tried and tested UK bike/classic bike outlets.

The best quality item I've received recently was the high rise bars for the GF.  They look good, seem to have very decent chrome, and are the correct size.

Anyone else recommend a decently priced supplier?

[bl**dydrivers]

You got me worried there for a moment!
I went to have a look at my seal holders and thank god they have the straight edge!

Many years ago I got stainless steel ones from Lyford Classics (miss those guys! Excellent quality and great prices!)

[CheeserBeezer]

You got me worried there for a moment!
I went to have a look at my seal holders and thank god they have the straight edge!

Many years ago I got stainless steel ones from Lyford Classics (miss those guys! Excellent quality and great prices!)

Modifying the slots isn't difficult though, a few rubs with a file and it's done! I started the thread to encourage people to do exactly what you have done. i.e. If you have a new pair ready to fit, file the slots square before fitting, if you've got the dodgy ones.

[Radlan2]

        How I undo or tighten my seal holders is by tightening a pair of jubilee clips to it with the worms aligned, then hold that in the vice and un twist the leg. I wrap insulation tape around the seal holder first to protect the chrome, this works every time when the service tool doesn't fit properly.
       Chris

[Worty]

I bought a seal holder tool and had to grind it down so it would fit.  Works fine, but I like the alternative from Chris.

As for getting the circlips back in, I bought some mini needle nosed locking pliers for a few quid.  I put one side in, lock it with the pliers, then force the other side in.  Before I did this, I ended up with the circlip finding its way behind a fingernail - lots of blood followed

I still have the l/h seal to do - AGAIN!

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
Worty, I'm sure I posted the pointy vice grip trick on here, it shows that at least one person reads my ramblings

I have a fork seal tool that I got secondhand 50 years or so ago, it is hardened, I had the hell of a job to take a skim off the outside so it would fit inside some pattern seal  holders.
Back in c1978 I bought a pair of seal holders that had oversize threads  that would jump the threads when tightened. I resorted to copious amounts of loctite and a g clamp to hold them in place until the loctitr set
It worked 

John

[Worty]

I can't remember if I got that idea from you or not, but it was a great solution to the problem.  If it was you, then you've saved me a lot of pain and cursing!  Those circlips are positively the worst things to get back in

[berger]

worty i did mine years ago they aint that bad to get in it's getting the buggas out.

[bl**dydrivers]

Hoping there won’t be a problem with the tool when the time comes to rebuilding the forks!

Found a NOS many years ago

My patience is running dry with the painter!

[CheeserBeezer]

Hoping there won’t be a problem with the tool when the time comes to rebuilding the forks!

Found a NOS many years ago

My patience is running dry with the painter!

It's not the tool that's the problem, it's the poxy seal holders. Check that the seal holders have a square cut slot for the tool to engage with.