Replacement Dynamo for my A10

[FrederikN.F.]

Hey there! I currently have a not working, not really fitting dynamo mounted in my A10. I am now considering to replace it with an aftermarket 12V version as I want to travel a lot with it and get the option to change my K2F to electric ignition. (currently very happy with my K2F)

Has anyone experience with Alton dynamos or the ones from old motorcycle parts from Poland? Any recommendations? Alton seems to be nice because its a bit cheaper and comes with a v-belt to replace the chaindrive of the dynamo.

Thanks and have a nice rest of the week!

[CheeserBeezer]

A very good piece of kit but I couldn't justify the expense. It doesn't cost a fortune to refurbish your own dynamo and/or convert it to 12v.

[FrederikN.F.]

Yes. Same here I think it's kind of pricey. I checked my Dynamo and I think I just need another cover for the rear part and a 12V kit to refurbish it. So thank you for the reply! It's going to save me a lot of money that I can spend for a replacement clutch for the 6 spring that is currently mounted. 😄

[jhg1958]

I have an Alton alternator.  It is a great bit of kit. I was rebuilding a basket case and had no dynamo so I would have laid out an arm and a leg anyway.

I put the reg/rectifier under the steering head, a neat location and great if it gets warm (it never does).   I put a Wassall electronic ignition with all the gubins hidden in the toolbox with the oil filter. I rewired the bike to 12 volt and negative earth as the functions nowhere match the original functions.

Apart from LEDs I put a H4 headlamp in so I can see at night. I think I wish I had put indicators on it and may do it yet.

I have only had one problem and that was with the belt. I never checked the tension and it became slack, slipped and wore through. Now I tighten it twice a year.  You cannot see the belt but it is easy to feel as you rotate the alternator in the housing.

I can post photos if you would like some or even the wiring diagram.

John.

[Catz]

 or even the wiring diagram.
John.

Hi John, i wouldn't mind a photo of the wiring diagram if that's ok.
I'm going to do a bit of electrical work on my A10 this winter. I've already done the 12volt conversion but indicators would be good and for some reason i can only get the headlight to come on without high beam so a bit scary at night.
If you need my email address then send me a PM and i'll get back to you. Thank you.
EDIT: Just noticed the icons at the side of the id, there is an email function but never used it.

[Adler]

Hello Forum, as there is a side discussion about indicators. I have implemented tiny LED ones very next to the licence plate and some at the ends of the handlebar, too. Very bright but almost invisible if not used. Nice: the indicator module (12V) also has a hazard warning lights mode. Do not complain about me as I have (old original) Honda handlebar armatures in use ...
Best regards, Manfred

[FrederikN.F.]

Very nice! As far as wiring looms go I wired mine like the original but changed the positive ground to a negative ground as found on most modern bikes. Horn and brake light are always connected and the three-way switch controls parking light and headlight. Low and high beam is controlled via a Lucas emgo style switch. In this configuration you shouldn't have big wiring problems or wires hanging around as only one positive wire is going up front to the Amperemeter. Connection of indicators should also be no problem. There is a very genius relay from highsider which is only connected to a positive potential. So the switch is just controlling pulsed positive current. Suitable for both led or normal. I used it on many customer bikes as it is also relatively affordable.



https://highsider.de/produkt/highsider-digitales-blinkrelais-pw-nano/?srsltid=AfmBOorUxfFECdDI2ir1OiMV-RmNzknpNe1R3VygmJpyTupOBGNR_8VM

[jhg1958]

No problem sharing the diagram.  Perhaps I had better point out some mistakes that I made when I rewired it.

Arrogantly I chose my own wire colour scheme it would have been better to stick to the British bike ones that you can find around the web.

I used traditional bullets.  These proved a disaster and I have change many to the Japanese bullets that click together and they keep more moisture out,  much better. I have not updated the diagram as it changes some of the connectors as you can only get three wires to join together with the Japanese connectors.

The power comes on with the light switch.  I always start it on pilot then move it to Headlight.  The alternator is happy to run with the headlight on.   

I did not want to put a key switch so I put a cheap remote relay in the circuit. It has worked surprisingly well. I originally wired to switch off when the power went off, mistake, accidentally switch the light switch to off and you have to get the remote to restart it.  Now it goes off on demand.

I put an earth wire to all the components.  I should have put a fuse in this side too, probably will sometime.

I did the drawing on power point and always keep a copy in the bike tool box to save my poor ailing memory.

I love the indicators but I like my bar end mirrors so I can see that being a problem.


John
 

[Catz]

Thanks John, looks like a nice, simplified wiring diagram.
Tell me that i'm being thick, but i can't see the indicators, not that i'm too bothered as i like not having any as much as having them 

[jhg1958]

Well spotted. I never planned for indicators and have not fitted any so that is why they are missing.

When drew this up I started with a list of wires from and to, what is does etc. I found that useful.

John

[KiwiGF]

My B31 field coil had low resistance (I think the insulation breaks down over time and coils “short” together) and I made up a former and would wound a new one. Took a while obviously 😏. Its basically the same dynamo as the A10.

If you have a low resistance field coil, this may cause a modern electronic regulator to fail…….

I added extra coils and the result was the bike charges at tickover, just. If you have a modern regulator that may not be important but I still have the original mechanical reg on the B31.

Lucas could have done the same, but I guess didn't, to keep the cost down.

[Black Sheep]

My A7 has an E3L which has a 12 volt armature and field coil many years ago. This was primarily to power my heated grips. This works well. I recently replaced the 50/40 BFP headlight bulb with a lensed LED to reduce the current drain with both on when sitting in traffic but it wasn't really necessary. 

[groily]

My A7 has an E3L which has a 12 volt armature and field coil many years ago. This was primarily to power my heated grips. This works well. I recently replaced the 50/40 BFP headlight bulb with a lensed LED to reduce the current drain with both on when sitting in traffic but it wasn't really necessary.

You did rather better there than me with heated grips (Hot Hands from Oxford, 34W) and a 36/36W globe on one of mine using a 12v set of windings. 
My one sulked and threw its wires off the comm quite quickly when asked to deliver more than its nominal 60W (even if at a system voltage of say 14, they ought to be good for 70W without exceeding their 5A limit).
Now that we have far better LEDs available, the problem can fortunately be consigned to history AND a decent battery gets us home in the dark whatever happens.