New member from Essex England

[Else]

Update: After much faffing about I found I was flooding it. I have reduced the float chamber level slightly and fitted Brisk plugs and now just tap the tickler a couple of times when cold only. No choke and no throttle, turn it over with 2 slow kicks then a good one and she fires up. I then add a little choke while it warms up then take it off.
It’s difficult to road test this time of the year due to the weather but gradually going further from home each time. I also need to get accustomed to the gear change and rear brake being on opposite sides.
Front brake is pretty poor, back is excellent so my next project is to improve the front brake. Doing lots of research at the moment.
Happy new year
Else

[Swarfcut]

  That full width cast iron hub front brake  is much maligned, but as a start, make sure the operating lever on the back plate never passes over the magic 90 degrees with the cable. If it does with the brake full on, you're not applying the maximum force.

 Have look at OZ ADV's bike. I reckon that front brake is worn out or incorrectly set up. Lever has passed over the 90, it needs to point more downwards and make an acute angle with the cable when at rest.

 Swarfy.

[BagONails]

Hi Else and welcome, I thought I'd chip in as an ex Essex man myself...We used to live in Nounsley near Hatfield Peverel before we upped sticks and came out here about 20 years ago now.

After catching up on what you have been trying, you've made progress, well done. I will only add that having been through similar trials myself and also being a relative newcomer to these venerable old machines I have found my A10 runs and starts better on standard low octane unleaded, rubbish 91 ron here, but it seems to like it so give that a go certainly no more than 95 ron unless you are running high compression?
We are lucky here in Aus in that we can still get fuel without ethanol in it but whatever you use keep this down to a minimum as it won't do you any favours.

I always give her a tickle first thing in the morning then I get the bike out of the shed...etc.etc. but all joking apart my bike here in Aus doesn't even have a choke fitted but it does like being flooded to start, by which I mean depress the tickler until fuel just appears to wet your finger. (you can overdo it). Then I slowly ease it over a couple of revs until at least one cylinder is just over compression (actually good practice at this point to pull the clutch in and kick through to clear the plates then give it a hefty swing while cracking the throttle about a 1/4 open and it generally fires immediately, it'll then settle to a rather slow tickover but I generally keep it running at a fast idle on the twist grip while it warms up a little.

I've not tried the Brisk plugs but have had no problems with NGK BP7ES just make sure they are genuine ones! (mine has an alloy head)
Good luck with the brakes, I've tried everything and there's plenty of info on here. (use the search) Progress has been made but they still only just slow me down rather than stop me if you know what I mean!  Be careful about following any modern motors or motorcycles for that matter there is no stopping if they anchor on hard...

Wishing you all the best with the new bike it looks lovely.

[chaterlea25]

Hi Else,
I only just saw your post,
My SR has long reach plugs so I do. not know
The short reach number,
There is a brand equivalent table on the net, maybe linked to F2' s website?

John

[Else]

Just found the brake shoes have been fitted the wrong way round, the friction material was leading rather than trailing on the show so I have swapped them over to the correct orientation. Unfortunately it is too damp on the roads today to try it out, hoping tomorrow will be dry. Fingers crossed