Author Topic: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening  (Read 4036 times)

PartTrader

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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #30 on: 27.07. 2010 19:45 »
Hi All,

I'm going through the same silencer issues on my 61 SuperRocket.  I have had to place the bracket on the outside of the frame mounting on the chain side to accommodate the center stand and the gear lever side is just a nightmare as the kickstart hits whatever I do.  I'm looking for a kickstart with a greater offset as originally my bike had a siamese system and was ok.   

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #31 on: 17.08. 2011 16:02 »
Hi parTrader
hope you got your kickstart sorted, in the course of my projects prolonged metamorph I've got a few kickstart quadrants and noticed there is some (if little ) difference in the length of the kickstart side of the shaft, also the gearbox cover bearing for the kickstart tends to walk out on mine so I cut an old timing side bush and slipped it over the shaft between kickstart lever and gearbox cover, keeps the bearing in and gets full length of the shaft outwards for lever clearing the silencer.

On the subject of cable soldering I have at last got a solder pot (17.50 UK pounds plus 7.50 postage from China where else however two or three cables and it's paid for itself)  goes upto 400 (probably to hot) also it's a pretty big pot but possible not a bad thing for dipping an inch or cable into it.

Now just got to get some tinmans solder - thanks again for the advise 
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online BSA_54A10

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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #32 on: 18.08. 2011 11:02 »
1) Markus is talking about the 0.5% to 1.5% Au/Pb solders when he says "silver solder"
2) always shorten the drum end of the cable, not the ball end.
Buy a "solderless" drum and keep it in your tool kit.
If the cable pulls through at the handlebar end ( the drum ) you can always slip the cable into the solderless drum ( clamp on ) and carry on.
If the cable pulls through the ball end it is much more difficult to bodge on the side of the road.
The ball end needs to rotate when you apply pressure so keep it clean & oiled.
Even better is to fit a free floating drum on the handlebar end so both ends of the cable can rotate.
Your cable will last a lot longer and your brakes will work better.

Bike Beesa
Trevor

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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #33 on: 18.08. 2011 16:20 »
taken on board Trevor - thanks
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online RichardL

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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #34 on: 18.08. 2011 19:42 »
This is a real late comment, but further to what Trevor said about lead in solder (back in February of last year), I covet closely my thousand-year-old spool of tin/lead electronic solder. If it was really bad, I would be a lot worse than people think I am  ;) , having used my mouth as a third hand to hold solder for about 30 years (not continuously, of course).

Richard L.
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Re: Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening
« Reply #35 on: 18.08. 2011 21:44 »
And if you chewed hard enough it would act as fillings for your teeth.  *eek* *eek*
Cheers
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