Author Topic: Q2 - Oiling  (Read 854 times)

Online Butch (cb)

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Q2 - Oiling
« on: 12.08. 2010 11:02 »
And with apologies - another oil thread. Bet you've gone through this a couple of times by now.

So my engine is all built up, lovely and like new. I've left it as nature intended, that is with the timing bush not a needle/roller conversion. Immediately after the build I would have been running a monograde; 40 or 50 I'd presume. But in short order decided I'd like some filtration. I can't recall the supplier but I bought a kit which runs off the return side to what I think is a 2CV high flow filter that is mounted up in the tool box.

Thinking that monograde is designed to dump particulates - at the sludge trap, I switched to a 20/50 which I understand should hang on to the bits until they hit the filter. So far so good.

Now the bike gets stood on and off, and this coupled with the 20/50 (presumably) being thinner when cold meant I quickly realised I was having wet sumping problems. After some investigation I sourced and have fitted a BriTie anti wet sumping valve into the supply side. (There is no way I would risk putting a tap in here). Early days, but I'm presuming this will do the trick.

So I've now got extra resistance on the supply side going through that valve, and in the return going through the 'high flow' filter. And I'm running the std BSA oil pump. Am I digging a hole for myself here or does this all sound OK? Should I be considering the fitment of, say, an SRM high flow oil pump? If I'm changing the oil every 500 - 1000 miles is that filter pretty much a waste of time anyway?
Warning - observations made by this member have a 93% unreliability rating.

Of Bikes; various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza


Online bsa-bill

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Re: Q2 - Oiling
« Reply #1 on: 12.08. 2010 13:00 »
Prepare for many alternative opinions Cylcobutch.
I agree with all you've done others will disagree on some points
I ran an anti wet sump valve for a long time  with absolutely no ill effects using 20/50 with a filter, took the valve off after I had done up the engine as it wasn't required .
20/50 was developed for motorcycles (air cooled engines) by Duckhams, remember the green stuff.
I have no problems with SRM - good firm bringing improved products to our market but would not by there pump unless mine was gooshed, increased flow I can see might be good, it will not deliver increased pressure though, this is governed by your pressure release valve.
Look at the return into your oil tank with the bike running ( give it a minute or two to clear any oil collected in the sump) it should return into the tank in spurts showing the return side is doing well and pumping air as well as oil ( return has more output than feed)

If your doing a lot of start stop then changing the oil often is good, Keep the filter
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online muskrat

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Re: Q2 - Oiling
« Reply #2 on: 12.08. 2010 13:22 »
G'day cyclobutch,
                            I'll agree with all but the valve. The only time I would fit one is if the bike has a oil pressure gauge or warning light. With one of those sump plates with a drain plug it only takes a few minutes to empty the sump. The only time I do that is if more than half the oil tank is in the sump.
 I also change the oil at 1000 miles, then use it in the car! *eek*
Cheers
                             
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: Q2 - Oiling
« Reply #3 on: 13.08. 2010 10:32 »
For starter the Bri-Tie valve is in essence the same thing that BSA fitted behind the oil pump which should have the spring replaced every couple of years.
As you probably have gathered I am not a fan of them unless the machine dose not have a valve.
Putting one on a BSA is duplicating what is already there and probably covering up other problems ( like excessive side clearence in the oil pump ).

Muskies idea would have been a better use of your hard earned.
I use a local one with the oil drain in the side ( not middle ) and fit it with the sump plug pointing to the left.
This makes it easy to drain with the bike on the side stand and in the event that you forget to replace it or dfo not do it up tight enough it spurts out over the left pipe not directly under the rear wheel.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Q2 - Oiling
« Reply #4 on: 13.08. 2010 11:22 »
Yes - in essence I agree, especially if the sump plug is a magnetic one, you then get to remove some wearing crud out of the engine before it gets into the pump.
and yes providing it is not dramatic the wet sumping may even give your cylinders a splash of oil when they most need it, can be a bit alarming when you first encounter it though
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco