QD Hub Splines

[brackenfel]

Dear All,
The saga continues with the '54 swing-arm rear so-called QD hub.. With the help of a friend we eventually managed to separate the wheel from the brake drum using large tyre levers!!  I've replace the wheel bearings (one was shot, the other ok!!) and have cleaned all the crud from the splines and am now trying to get the wheel and brake drum to go back together as they should.
The splines are supposed to slide together easily, they don't. Splines are usually worn and slackness is a problem, not here.. With a lot of patience, force (my hands are bruised and sore) I've waggled the thing on about half the distance of the splines on the wheel - I can mark progress by the line of grease!

I've tried moving both drum and wheel around to work out a tight spot but can't find one. It usually "waggles" better one way than the other, eg side to side rather than top to bottom, but again this isn't consistent.

Has anyone else had this problem??  I thought I'd ask before I get truly brassed off and (once the new tyre has been fitted) drift the bloody thing back together with my friend Thor and a block of wood & put the whole unit back in the swingarm....

Thanks,
Adrian

[bsa-bill]

Never had one of those QDs but from what you say my first thought would be ovality

[LJ.]

My M21 girder/rigid also has a QD rear wheel BUT different from my B33 which I assume to be the same as the A seris.... Have you got the correct splined wheel or hub? are they compatible with each other??

[brackenfel]

Hi LJ,
This is actually the back end of my B33 but it's identical to the A's of the period so I thought someone else here may have had similar problems..
It's all correct for 1954 (the bike is remarkably original) & I'm pretty sure the parts started life together. Maybe it has somehow got less round than it was but it's pretty sturdy stuff with no obvious signs of damage...

The A10 is now back on the road and being enjoyed.. Gearchange is still a bit less than perfect despite the rebuilt box & the forks can top out sometimes - has anyone tried those 2-way damping rods that Paul Goff sells?
I was just trying to get the B33 ready to join the A10...

Thanks for you thoughts,
Adrian

[bsa-bill]

I have the 2 way dampers - they do make a difference, you might have to use a different grade of fork oil, it's a case of try one and see, I would tell what I use but can't remember now, think it was about 10.

I have some gear change issues after a rebuild, I need to flick the lever down after a down change as it wont return fully by itself, I think it might just be getting better with use but I might have to investigate further

[muskrat]

I too have the double dampers on both my A's and work great with 15 fork oil. I made mine using John's specs http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,2895.0.html .
Something wrong with the splines. I'd hunt around for another set or someone with the same to compare. Could it be a ridge on one or both from wear like trying to take a drum off without backing off the shoes?
Cheers

[brackenfel]

Thanks Muskrat & Bill,
The splines look fine, no obvious signs of ridges but then my eyes aren't what they used to be....

Bill - the change up from 3rd to 4th sometimes takes 2 prods, no nasty noises..  I replaced all of the casing bushes so I'm hoping things might ease with use too... Changing between 2nd & 3rd gets rougher when the bike warms up though..
I might simply try heavier (30) grade in the existing forks for a while & then look at the 2-ways at the Shepton Jumble in October...

Thanks again,

Adrian

[RichardL]

Adrian,

Yes, I too,  had this problem.  I think it must have been due to plating the drum,  though,  the hub and drum did not start life together. It's been a while,  so I don' recall exactly the feel of the fit,  but I ended up fixing the problem.  That last sentencce was going to keep going until I realized that I could not remember exactly how I fixed it. It was either by using a file or a Dremel tool a tiny bit on both sides of each tooth.  I do,  however,  remember my shooting a short bit of video of me doing this.  I know,  it sounds stupid that I can't remember such a pain-in-the-backside task.  I think I probably tried both approaches and the winning method just escapes me. On the other hand,  it was just one in a history of such tasks,  and, by far,  not the worst.  I'm curious if anyone else here has done such QD-spline dentistry.

Richard L. 
 

[Flatboy 1950]

I had a 350 Goldie with the QD hub & no problems at all.
Also had a 441 Victor Special with QD hub (1970) & no problem for 14 years.
Makes me think something else is going on here ; could the bolts holding the spline to the brake drum be fouling the crinkle hub somehow ??
I don't have a wheel lying around to look at , so simply wondering out loud !!

Regards , Flatboy1950

[brackenfel]

Thanks Richard & Flatboy...
I spent a lot of time trying to get this thing to fit, things improved but the last 1/8" was still an issue. A good friend and ex-Rolls engineer thought it was something I'd missed and had a go too, he had to admit that he couldn't see anything obvious either.. Very hard to measure something like this accurately.

So, not wishing to spenf the whole Summer trying to get it right I reached for the block of wood and Thor the trusty hammer......
It's back on the bike (with new rim tape, tube and tyre) but definitely isn't QD at the moment......

I guess I'll take my time trying to source some alternative items so that one day I'll get it right. In the meantime I'll just hope I don't get a puncture....

Cheers,

Adrian

[wilko]

With a bit of use it should wear itself loose enough for next time?

[brackenfel]

Hi Wilko,
I'm hoping for something like that!! Just need a battery & I'll get it an MOT and get out and about on it!
Cheers,

Adrian