Plunger 6 spring duplex clutch basket

[Metty66]

Saw it mentioned on one of the threads that one of the Norton clutch baskets fits on the splined plunger main shaft. Can anyone enlighten me and is it a duplex so I can use the current engine sprocket? Also are the clutch plates and 80 link primary chain interchangeable. Ta v much for any info.

[trevinoz]

The Norton clutch will fit the splined shaft and has been fitted to swinging arm gearboxes which have the plunger main shaft fitted.
The clutch basket is simplex and probably wouldn't fit into the plunger chaincase anyway.
Trev.

[Metty66]

Thanks Trev another plan shot down in flames!!

[Metty66]

Result managed to get one ordered from british only in austria. Bit rusty looking but should clean up hopefully. Has anyone had anything vapour blasted would this be the best option or sand blasting which i could do at work obviously masking bearing run or just hard work by hand??

[duTch]

 Not sure exactly what you ordered- I wrote a reply the other day, but must've wandered off and forgot to post it. It went something like this....

  I had/have a Norton chainwheel maybe from a Commando era, that I planned to use.
The spline is the same, it is triple roller, same pitch, but too big a diameter for the plunger case...!
 May work in a swing arm jobbie..?

 Re- 'vapour -blasting', be same as 'aqua-blasting', or 'soda-blasting' (with sodium carbonate solution), I had a hub done with soda-blast, comes up good and led to believe a bit more gentle than sand or beads.

  It's an easier/quicker option but wire wheel then acid/vinegar works ok, if you like getting dirty.

[BSA_54A10]

If you have sand blasting equipment you can soda blast with the same gear.
just go down & buy a bag of bicarb.
farming suppliers will be best as you can buy it in 25kg bags.
Have known a few owners to do it using 1kg boxes from the supermarket.
The cheap & nasty soda blaster is a length of 1/4" tube stuck on the end of a normal air cleaning gun, then a plastic T piece, one end into the box of soda and the other end is the blaster.
Works fine for carbs, not sure about rust.
For something like a clutch basket I would go for a ferric chloride cleaning solution ( yellow solution that goes green when exhausted ) as they are the least agressive & will not afect the bearing surfaces.
Next best is the old CLR (Calcium , lime, Rust ) bought from almost any hard wear store & a lot of supermarkets.
Now if you want to frig around a bit there is electrolysis using a car battery, very simple works very well won't hurt the bearings.
And finally there is good old molasses . Don't do this snywhere that the fume can get inside or you will be living outside for a week or two.
Dead simple to do, leaves a nice brown/black phosphate coating on the surface which will have to be washed off the bearing surfaces.

Hard work is what we do to earm money to play with our bikes, not what we do to our bikes.

[Metty66]

Thanks for the replies. Back at work tomorrow so will ask what options we have there. I seem to think that we use a chemical dip for rust removal called genolite? Not sure how aggressive this is though. At the end of the day not opposed to a bit of elbow grease as ive just scraped off by hand all the white paint from a cast iron pub table now that was pure tedium!!

[duTch]

 

cast iron pub table now that was pure tedium!!

 Is tedium a metal I never heard of..?

 As per Trevs' stuff, I forgot about molasses- which is usually at the top of the list- it is a little bit stinky, but not so bad until you stick yer arm in it to find stuff, but works a treat.
  Also I recall at the chromer-dude, I think he said they soak some stuff in caustic-soda...?

 and re the soda-blast, I might've taken a liberty there, getting mixed up with reverse psychology/osmosis/gears/... ....electrolysis- that's the stuff- I read about fixing rust in fuel tanks, and the electrolyte generally used (supposedly) is sodium carbonate, a water softener, and that's another process you could play with...

[BSA_54A10]

Thanks for the replies. Back at work tomorrow so will ask what options we have there. I seem to think that we use a chemical dip for rust removal called genolite? Not sure how aggressive this is though. At the end of the day not opposed to a bit of elbow grease as ive just scraped off by hand all the white paint from a cast iron pub table now that was pure tedium!!

You should have asked first and some of that tedium could have been preserved for use later on.
To remove paint from cast iron the go is a 25% solution of caustic soda.
Hot it workes even better, will also remove some light rust and aluminium so is excellent for ripping that piston smeere from your barrels.
When you have finished, pour it into an old 25 L drum, filtered is even better and keep it for use latter or dilute it 50% more and use it for degreasing the drive way or as a spray on wash off degreaser for alloy but do not soak in it .

[Briz]

I seem to think that we use a chemical dip for rust removal called genolite? Not sure how aggressive this is though.

Its Jenolite. Its just phosphoric acid. Cheaper to buy alloy wheel cleaner. It works.

Regarding the clutch basket, there is a duplex one which works with Norton clutch parts. They fitted it to 250 matchless / AJS singles.

You have to swap the Norton centre spider into the cush drive, but all other parts fit except the back plate, you have to use one for that basket. Sprocket is smaller than the plunger onme; 46T instead of 54 T. Works well.