If you are going to make the effort to make your own cables then do it properly and fit a free rotating drum to the handlebar end and not a fixed drum.
When you pull on a cable, the cable tries to rotate because of the lay of the wire.
Motorcycle controls are designed to allow for this rotation at the engine end of the cables by fitting a ball or pear end which in theory can rotate.
In practice the socket the ball fits into is usually mutilated and the cable does not rotate , so it starts to snap strands at the handlebar end as the cable is really a bunch of very fine steel wires that you are twisting twice every time you pull a lever.
By fitting a pear and free rotating drum to the handle bar end you allow for this rotation at both ends.
This gives you 2 benefits
1) the cable will last indefinately & never break.
2) more of the force you put on the lever will be transmitted to the other end of the cable thus making both the clutch & brake lighter.
Aside from that the pears are easier to solder on than a complete drum.
Slip the drum onto the wire, thin hole first then run it out of the way.
Do the same with the pear,
lightly solder the place where you are going to cut the wire then cut it with bolt cutters.
Hold the wire in a vice with about 1/4" exposed and splay out the wires with a sharp pointed center punch.
Pull the pear back up the wire till the splayed wires are inside the domed part, don't pull it all the way off.
Now fill the pear with 30:70 ( high strength) tin mans solder.
If necessary , like me you have solder where it should not be, polish off, now lube and slid the drum back over the cable, realizing you have forgotten the end ferrule & Adjuster.
