Author Topic: Crankshaft shimming  (Read 3162 times)

Online chaterlea25

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #90 on: 20.01. 2021 01:13 »
Hi All,
This suggestion is going to make Richard Mad as to why he or anybody else didn't think of it  *????*
Remember the crank was only a smidgin tight

I would have given the thrust face of the timing side bush a shave with a scraper or some emery cloth  *bright idea*

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline muskrat

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #91 on: 20.01. 2021 02:29 »
G'day John.
Not a bad idea at all. We're only talking a thou"
Being a F&T I'd need to scrape & blue a few times to eliminate high spots. If not you could end up with too much end float once the high spots wear off. But that's being pedantic I spose when considering the load and amount of use.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online RichardL

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #92 on: 20.01. 2021 04:28 »
Hi All,
This suggestion is going to make Richard Mad as to why he or anybody else didn't think of it  *????*
Remember the crank was only a smidgin tight

I would have given the thrust face of the timing side bush a shave with a scraper or some emery cloth  *bright idea*

John

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha! Mad, I'm not mad, who's mad, why would anybody be mad? Haahahahahaha. If I was mad it would only be at myself. Now, if by "mad" you mean loony, that's another thing.

Actually, that's what I should have thought of and done. So easy with one of my sanding disks mounted in the drill press.

Anyway, considering all the chiding, teasing, mechanical criticism (some scary), loss of all integrity and dignity, I am sharing a link to the Youtube video I made showing me bumbling and fumbling with my homemade puller. Hoping you find it amusing and good for a laugh, in general, or maybe just at me.  https://youtu.be/SuiQZnIYU-c

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020. This year it's a solo or pillion ride in dapper attire. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.


Online berger

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #93 on: 20.01. 2021 04:45 »
I would most probably put the nuts on the studs then put bolts through all the other holes and smacked the end of crank with the nut fully tight and I bet bobs ya uncle it's ready to go *beer*    Richard that was well worth watching I couldn't stop laughing when it set on fire.

Online BigJim

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #94 on: 20.01. 2021 07:57 »
Great video!! Thank you Richard. Excellent lighting and storytelling commentary. Most impressed with the puller, patent pending i hope. Good luck with setting the stack and the rebuild. More videos please!
 *beer* *yeah* *yeah* *good3*
Jamie,  Supporter of Distinguished Gentleman's Ride

Online Greybeard

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #95 on: 20.01. 2021 09:24 »
As an insurance advert in the UK says; "Simples!"  *good3*

Offline muskrat

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #96 on: 20.01. 2021 09:30 »
G'day Richard.
Maaaaate. Sorry but that was painful  *pull hair out*. only made it to 2:30 the 1st time *smile* Cut the studs shorter. I like the hollow spannere (wrentch). Luv'd the fire *ex* Heat the bearing all the way round.
I would have had it off berore you had the first nut done up  *sleepy* You must be retired  *razz*
Again sorry somebody has to tell you.
I appreciate the time and effort you put *yeah* in but a $50 puller can have many uses on a BSA.
Cheers

ps sorry but I'm celerbrating got 2 jobs (full time) to choose from today. 10 beers, 2xdouble rums and a smoke *ex* AND the wifes away *beer* And Alice cooper on the jukebox. And still in shed 8:30PM.
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online Greybeard

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #97 on: 20.01. 2021 10:13 »
I would have had it off before you had the first nut done up...

Well, OK, but what about the bearing?  *whistle*

Online RichardL

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #98 on: 20.01. 2021 12:16 »
I would have had it off before you had the first nut done up...

Well, OK, but what about the bearing?  *whistle*

 *lol*
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020. This year it's a solo or pillion ride in dapper attire. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.


Online RichardL

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #99 on: 20.01. 2021 13:03 »
Musky,

Enjoyed your comments. Others will wish they took your warning regarding the video.

"Cut the studs shorter " Genius! The final piece in the puzzle I needed before setting up Chinese manufacturing and sending it to market.

I made the original version of this work of art (the puller, not the video) somewhere around 2006, so, if it's even imaginable, I knew less about A7/A10 engines than I do now. I figured the modifcation would work, even if it continued the circus. I think the video runs 11 minutes, so, quicker than a round trip to Harbor Freight (as if all the time in fab never happened).

Congrats on the job offers. If I drank 10 beers I couldn't walk, let alone read or type.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020. This year it's a solo or pillion ride in dapper attire. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.


Offline MrShifta

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #100 on: 20.01. 2021 16:45 »
Hi guys,  I have my 1956 A10 s/a cases on the bench with my crank, with reground small journals, ready to fit. A new C3 RHP roller bearing fitted in the outer case. The roller inner slides onto the crank but not loose.  I do not know the ancestry of the crank but the stuff I bought had a load of A10 plunger bits in so it could be earlier.

I have set up my dial indicator and checked the end float and it is 40 thou ( 0.040" ) It seems miles too much so is there something else I should be looking at. I can turn a spacer to fit behind the inner but 0.040" is hardy a shim.

The Haynes manual talks about shimming both ends of the crank to ensure centralising the crank/conrods ???

Is there a method of checking the central position before I fit conrods etc.

Help.....


Offline sean

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #101 on: 20.01. 2021 16:53 »
Hi guys,  I have my 1956 A10 s/a cases on the bench with my crank, with reground small journals, ready to fit. A new C3 RHP roller bearing fitted in the outer case. The roller inner slides onto the crank but not loose.  I do not know the ancestry of the crank but the stuff I bought had a load of A10 plunger bits in so it could be earlier.

I have set up my dial indicator and checked the end float and it is 40 thou ( 0.040" ) It seems miles too much so is there something else I should be looking at. I can turn a spacer to fit behind the inner but 0.040" is hardy a shim.

The Haynes manual talks about shimming both ends of the crank to ensure centralising the crank/conrods ???

Is there a method of checking the central position before I fit conrods etc.

Help.....

how is the bushing face on the timing side  ?

Online berger

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #102 on: 20.01. 2021 16:56 »
has it had a pattern part bronze bush fitted in timing side, yes make a spacer and harden it , your looking for a couple of thou end float when the drive side is all fastened up tight. MR haynes *pull hair out* *bash*

Offline MrShifta

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #103 on: 20.01. 2021 17:27 »
I will go down the workshop in the morning and take the cases apart to check. The bush looked fine with no wear in the bore but I will look at the face. I have some Titanium bar to make a spacer so would save hardening ?

Thanks for the pointers.

The questions of the NF206 main bearing, I got mine from Bearing Revolution in Telford, U.K. it is an RHP, C3 steel cage and cost £48.57 incl vat and P&P.   ( I have no connection to them )

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Crankshaft shimming
« Reply #104 on: 20.01. 2021 17:47 »
   Have a close look at the crank webs in the area where the timing bush and inner race bear against the crank. Both sides should have a distinct area raised from the face of each web, to act as a bearing surface against the bush and as a seating for the inner race. Any variation from the norm here will result in greater freedom for the crank to float before being shimmed.

 A further error can also be in the thickness of a pattern bush flange and its relationship to the case.  A valid point there from sean, a thicker flanged custom bush may be required.

 I understand the A 50/65 engines had a loose thrust washer here, urban myth? Is this what bergs means?

 On the drive side I have seen cranks with a  recess machined into the face of the web by a loose inner race, the next stage of damage after the crank shims have departed as swarf, the well known result of a too loose cush nut. This wear/damage is always a possible on an unknown crank of dubious source.

 Swarfy.