What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Greybeard]

not seen one of them GB only the club to club things

I probably included it in the stuff I handed over to the new owner.

[greybloke]

In the manual(s) it says 'to remove front wheel, rotate spindle clockwise until spacer is taken in and spindle slides out.' Yeah. If your spacer wants to taper onto the spindle you can also achieve this by knocking out the r/h fork leg and then slide hub complete with brake off spindle. I'm gonna toast that spacer, literally.

No fork oil drain holes on this one. l/h pretty much had 1/4 pint in it; r/h not so much - and the spring is fouled in the seal holder by either rust or an infestation of small critters.

Invested in a lift stand to spare my lower back but I think I did my lower back putting it together.

[berger]

while you're at it measure the springs 11inch standard 11/1/2 or maybe 11/5/8ths side car fitted, just remembered mine were 11 / 3/4 so i changed them donkeys years ago

[Worty]

Completed a 188m Beeza ride, broken up with a visit to Bergs so he could see the fruits of his labour two years ago.  That's 338m in 10 days or so.  Once again, motor was lovely and got the Bergs approval.  He noticed it was running a bit rich on tickover, so a quick adjustment and all good - does make it more 'rideable' rather than 'urgent' through heavy traffic.

Valve maggie cut out thingy works fine and no leaks anywhere from the oil tank end.  Slight weep from gearbox drain screw, bit of blow from the breather, but my next job is to sort the l/h fork oil seal which is still proving to be problematic.

Still keeping a keen ear on the clacketty, tappetty tappets.  I did set them wide (9 thou for inlet, 15 thou for exhaust for max power).  I took 1 thou off both on Berg's advice due to damage on the valve stems.  Despite the noise, it never missed a beat and ticks over beautifully (did spit at me after filling up though).

Really good day in gorgeous weather and a solid chat with Bergs and Kim - bars open!

[Swarfcut]

 GB2....The oilseal holders unscrew from the fork sliders, normal right hand thread. This is very fine, and easily damaged. How you get them off can be a conundrum, the official workshop tool is a tube to fit between the leg and the oilseal holder, with a pair of tabs to fit matching slots in the holders. Easy to make and a better alternative to pipe wrenches, chain wrenches, strap wrenches etc. From experience, a heat gun will soften any adhesion in the thread and makes things a bit easier. Service Sheet 706 illustrates the official tool.

 Drags online catalogue has a section of fork spring lengths and number of turns. Those look untouched from new....Later fork legs will fit if your originals are too rusted to refurbish.

 Swarfy.

[Joolstacho]

I should (guiltily) admit, i've used a 'personalised' strap wrench in days gone by, but the REAL key to it is getting lots of heat into it with a heat gun. And yes that thread is a very fine thread and is easily crossed up. I advise before assembly, run the threads up and down using fine valve grinding paste to loosen the threads.

[Worty]

I always screw the seal holders back on using the tapping technique of backing off if the thread gets a bit tight.  Also use WD40 as a lubricant.

[berger]

was good to see worty yesterday and his engine sounds bloomin lovely , very clean as well , worty i think your fork oil drip is the top nut and it is creeping down the leg. glad the carb adjustment has stopped it hunting on slight throttle opening, i opened my bar when you had gone

[greybloke]

Ploughing on with the strip down. Yokes off and now communing meaningfully with the hubs/bearings. Fused on dustcaps are a pain. I'm mildly amazed at how plentiful spares are. Oh, joined the UK BSA Owners' Club 'cos I'll need their sign off for an age related reg after resto. Hmmm, should be finished about next Spring at this rate.

[Worty]

Keep at it GB2 - furious cursing is a prerequisite for owning a Brit bike at the best of times

However, the rewards for riding machines like ours are well worth it.

[Adler]

... put an already finished engine on to the shelf ...
Best regards, Manfred

[Worty]

Nice bikes Adler!!

[BagONails]

Hi BagONails,
This happens too often; remember changing down to second gear entering a roundabout, then waving the right foot in fresh air at the exit, trying to find the missing gear lever. And there were two other A10's which "malted" the gear lever.

These days I drill the end of the shaft, and tap it 1/4" BSC (naturally!).
Machine a keeper plate, and secure with a SS domed and polished bolt (1/2" length of thread) from Acme Stainless.
See attached pics, including a drawing. As drawn, the keeper has a 0.080 " step on the inner face, but not always necessary; sometimes you only require a flat keeper.

In order to break through the case hardening on the end of the shaft, use a 5.5mm masonry drill (with tungsten carbide tip insert), but grind the faces so they have the rake, and 118 degree included angle of a standard twist drill. A "Drill Doctor" tool with a diamond wheel will handle this, no problems.

I drill the gear lever spindle in the lathe, but you could do it "in situ" I also machine an o-ring groove on the shaft (and the kick starter shaft), then drill a breather hole in the rear of the intermediate gearbox section, and fit a Yamaha 90 degree breather adaptor. No more mist from the gear selector and kick starter shafts!

Happy trails,
Richard

I liked the look of Richard's solution to that nasty affliction known as: 'gear lever drop off', so had a go myself at making a retainer in similar vein although due to not having a ready supply of ACME stainless bling I had to stoop to repurposing an existing S/S M5 x12 Hex Hd set screw I had in stock and polish it up a bit!  Anyway here's the metric version, (sshhh don't tell anybody) but at 31.75 TPI with a drop of loctite I doubt this is going to loosen again... Thanks Richard!

[Greybeard]

Fused on dustcaps are a pain.

Those dust shields are little tinkers. My theory is that back in the day they were considered as consumables - the mechanic would chisel them off and fit a new one after servicing the bearings. Luckily I was able to reshape mine after removing it. I spent time with emery cloth smoothing the hub and greasing it so that the next time the cover has to be removed it might not be such a struggle. Draganfly were showing new ones when I last looked.

[greybloke]

Fused on dustcaps are a pain.

the mechanic would chisel them off and fit a new one after servicing the bearings. . Draganfly were showing new ones when I last looked.

Funny you should say that. I never came across minotaur tools - but their chisel driver set (less than £9) is an absolute charm. Yep, my dragan's wishlist is growing. I'll get it coated and a wipe of copper ease will get me thanked 75 years from now.