Author Topic: A10 main bearing quality  (Read 4458 times)

Online orabanda

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #30 on: 07.08. 2010 01:00 »
As usual, MG knows his stuff!
With the bronze properly tinned, the white metal will make a permanent bond.

What I didn't mention previously was that I had to remove the bush after line boring, remove the white metal and re pour it, because the crankshaft was tight to turn in places.

So, the first time the machining was done in a vertical borer. The LH crankcase half was bolted to my fixture, and the machinint clocked OFF THE CRANKCASE JOINTING FACE. After machining, the alignment was not perfect, because rotation was not easy.

I removed and repoured the bearing (as mentioned above), and insisted that the machinist set up off the LH (roller) bearing surface.

He then did the machining in a lathe, as mentioned at the strt, with perfect results.

This confirms what I have suspected for a long time; that the factory line boring of the crank case halves is not always at 90 degrees to the mating surfaces.
Richard

Online RichardL

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #31 on: 07.08. 2010 01:29 »
Richard,

Extremely interesting stuff. From the first story I took it that concentcity and angle-on-axis were both taken off the bearing outer ring in the left side. However, with this newly revealed story, I get it that he sought angle-on-axis from the mating surface but wonder what he tried for concentricity? I hope this question makes sense. Very convenient to have have a bell housing with a circular flange.

Richard L.
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Online orabanda

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #32 on: 07.08. 2010 02:50 »
Richard L,
For the first set-up, the machinist used the roller bearing housing for concentricity, but the crankcase jointing face for parallel. This is where it all turned to poo, because the bearing housing had been factory machined at a slight angle to the jointing face.

When set up in the lathe, it was easy to get it right. Concentricity was checked with a dial indicator, and the indicator was also used to check paralell ALONG the bearing housing. The angle was adjusted by shimming the base of the bellhousing in the 4 jaw chuck (and the usual judicious taps with the hammer!).

I used an old hydraulic pump - electric motor bellhousing for the crank case mount as there was one lying around, otherwise I would have made something similar, but probably half the length (not that it matters).

Dick from Oz

Online RichardL

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #33 on: 07.08. 2010 02:58 »
Richard,

Thanks for that explanation. I like having a clear understanding when the solution is brilliant.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #34 on: 07.08. 2010 11:20 »
Quote
A quick question: What assures the poured-in babbit adheres to the phosphor bronze?

Provided that you warm the outer first to prevent instant chill grains forming on the bronze then the Beta phase actually alloys with the copper and penetrates into the atomic lattice of the outer case.
As such it dose not adhere but , for want of a simpler term , melts into the case.
If you cut it in half there would be no clear sharp line that was yellow on one side and white on the other.

If done cold then you can get a suitation where the Beta phase solidifies out on the bronze case which starts to expand due to the heat from the molten metal which starts to contract due to its solidification and a mechanical tear occurs in the weaker material, namely the babbit but normally this only happens when you have a big lump of metal like pouring a babbit into the con rod on a long stroke A 7.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline bonny

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #35 on: 07.08. 2010 13:54 »
hi orabanda

couple of questions , where do you get the babbit metal ? did you make it yourself ? and do you have any pictures of the cases in the lathe ? it would be good to see. i was thinking about something similar making a jig for the milling machine and aligning everything off the roller bearing housing and using a boring head to bore the bush to size .

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #36 on: 07.08. 2010 15:04 »
You can buy castable babbit ( in about 200 grades) from most engineering supply stores, usually in break offs.
It is not hard to make but use plenty of Potassium nitrate flux on top or you will burn off the lower melting point metals.
Ideally you would use a mix of 2 parts Potassium nitrate , 1 part ammonium nitrate & 1 part sodium nitrate but if you go and buy those 3 chemicals together expect a visit from the "hut, hut, hut" boys at about 2 am and they won't be riding their A10's.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Online orabanda

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #37 on: 07.08. 2010 17:19 »
Hi Bonnie,
As Trevor pointed out, white metal is readily available.
I am using "OTL C.I.E., which is a tin base alloy, containing Cadmium.
It's application is " Compression Ignition Engines (Diesel) and all other types of internal combustion engines.

My machinist found it easier to set in the lathe rather than the mill, when it came to aligning along the length of the LH bearing bore. Setting concentricity is easy in either machine.
Richard

Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #38 on: 07.08. 2010 20:40 »
You know I was chuffed the other day at my ability to machine ( grind with stone in my bench drill ) a head bolt so I could get a longer one to get past stripped threads in the head, then I read the above mails, boy oh boy the depth of expertise in here is something else.
Respect Richard  *yeah*
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco