Author Topic: Headlight option recommendations for a newly upgraded 6v to 12v A10  (Read 2823 times)

Offline BrianS

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I am really grateful for all the great feedback guys!

I tend to get a bit enthusiastic about new projects and rush in too quickly. I have to tell myself that there is absolutely no rush and, with this in mind, I have taken Andrew's advice and wll fit the dynamo and conventional bulbs before experimenting.

With that in mind, I went through my ice cream tub of old bulbs and actually found a 12v dipping headlight bulb with the same fitting as the original 6v one so that was a big bonus  *smile*  Nothing on it to say the wattage just "BRITISH PRE-FOCUS" stamped on it but it didn't get upset when I tested it on a 12v battery!

The stop/tail light is a standard fitting so I have a 12v equivalent for there.

The speedo bulb is a bit more of a challenge. Small bayonet fitting and 6v 3w. I can find a 12v 5w that will fit but don't like the thought of losing even 2w that could otherwise be used by the headlight! I think I must investigate the back of my shelves - gotta have something!

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

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...The speedo bulb is a bit more of a challenge. Small bayonet fitting and 6v 3w. I can find a 12v 5w that will fit but don't like the thought of losing even 2w that could otherwise be used by the headlight!

I have a feeling that the sidelight goes off when the headlamp is on.

Online chaterlea25

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Hi Brian,
That makes more sense *red* (£30 bulb)
The reason for neg earth is that LED bulbs are usually polarity sensitive, they will only work for their designed polarity
Since most modern vehicles are neg earth, those bulbs will always be cheaper and more easily available

The Classic motorcycle magazine Jan17 page 9 just a paragraph about the reflector units

John

1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline BrianS

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I have a feeling that the sidelight goes off when the headlamp is on.

I had an email from the previous owner this morning (bless him!) and he says he replaced the standard headlight glass for a Lucas tripod (or tri-bar) version to add a touch of class  ;)

The new headlight didn't have a pilot lot facility so he added two Matchless sidelamps - see photo. I just checked and they stay on whether the switch is on headlight or park. I am guessing that is just the way they were wired in rather than a function of the switch which probably works as you suggest.

The sidelights have a BA9S bulb holder. I am tempted to use them as front indicators by deploying an amber bulb but it would have to be bright!
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Offline BrianS

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Crikey - a pair of non-chromed Matchless sidelights needing attention just went for £56 on eBay!  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282315933279?ul_noapp=true&autorefresh=true

I might put mine on eBay and that would pay for a whole flasher set up!!!

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

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They were also used on quite a few cars and vans so that might push the price up
C11,B40,B44 Victor,A10,RGS,M21,Rocket3,REBSA

Online mikeb

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late to the party on this one and the author of that long thread on LEDs referenced above. some months down the track I can still say the latest generation headlamp LEDS from dynamoregulatorconversions are GREAT be they 6v or 12V. and if you have a BPF reflector you can make one fit with some fiddling and cable ties (tho they'll say you can't). but a h4 reflector is easier and has a better pattern for sure. the 'naysayers' are largely on about older LEDS and I'd agree they're not good enough for the headlamp, even the earlier dynamoregulatorconversions  'double dipper' ones. LED technology is moving fast so check the date on the posts you read. Avoid headlamp ones with fans - cheap as chips and last about as long.

thing about 12v windings on our dynamos is some people have them burn out as the wire is thinner. do keep an eye on the amps your bulbs are drawing, especially with sidelights etc. or... get...some.. LEDS!.

DVR2 - good call, super simple. no more dark arts of lucas regulator adjustment and higher kick-in charge voltage.

the LED tail lamps i have (matchlesscluesless 6v and dynamoregulatorconversions  12v) are OK but not great. again they win on low power. all the plug-in LED replacement bulbs for indicators/sidelights I've tried are rubbish. some of the cluster LED board types are ok (not great).

Goffy has some LEDS that fit the speedo and work fine - quite a white light

negative earth has been covered above - gives you more choices.
New Zealand
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Offline rocker21

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fit a cibie z beam unit which has an h4 fitting then buy a led from classic dynmao conversions, the result is a well focused light  that uses very little power, done this on my A7 and as i live in a very rural area with no street light it is so much better than anything else, not a cheap thing to do but the results are worth it.

Offline BrianS

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It's been a while but I have been running with the upgraded 12V dynamo (Stage 1) for a while now and am happy enough to move on to a Stage 2 to improve the headlight beam.

To that end I have bought some kit from Paul Goff - felt a bit like Christmas this morning whilst unpacking the goodies!

I bought:
Wipac H4 headlamp shell with pilot – special shallow reflector to allow for the A10s speedo cable which intrudes into the headlight nacelle – p/n HLW4700
45/40W halogen headlight bulb – p/n B1245P43TQ
1.5W LED pilot lamp and holder – p/n LDT10DW
LED Stop/tail light board (apparently the LED bulbs can’t take the vibration) – p/n LB12
LED Speedo bulb – p/n LDBA9SW


I will feed back when it's all fitted and tested.

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Online mikeb

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looks like a good upgrade - you'll like that reflector
just watch the watts - the e3l is nominally 60w tho some of those 12v rewinds claim 80w. the more you draw the hotter they get. depending on what you do with those sidelights (the bin comes to mind) you could exceed 60w quite easily, even with an led board on the back
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'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '18 Triumph Street Triple RS

Offline BrianS

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Hi Mike and thanks for the feedback.

The 12v dynamo is rated at 65W and my maths on the total current draw looks like this:
Headlight - max 45W on main beam
Tail light - 0.035A (not sure about the brake light and whether that's included)
Speedo bulb - 1.5W

Total is assumed to be less than 50W max with brake light on so should be safe?

The headlight pilot bulb apparently switches off when the headlight is on so I am ignoring it.

As you suggest the sidelights won't be used as I now have a (hopefully) bright LED pilot light.

However, if all goes well then I will be encouraged to revisit the possibility of fitting indicators- a big safety plus in my view  ;)

Brian


1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

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...fitting indicators- a big safety plus in my view  ;)
After witnessing an accident caused by, A, rider forgetting to cancel his indicator and B, car driver pulling out assuming rider was turning, I disagree.

Offline BrianS

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I understand what you are saying and, because of the possibility of forgetting to cancel indicators, I put an annoying buzzer in my trail bikes to remind me to cancel.

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

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i fully agree with indicators, especially if much city riding. the average car driver appears to think a hand signal is like a middle finger and a leg signal a sign of derangement. are you going to remove those side lights so people don't think they are indicators?

my a10 indicators (leds of course) have a buzzer which i can hear when stationary but no chance over the throaty roar of an A10. I've noticed now I have a modern (with fancy cancelling stuff) I'm more inclined to forget to turn the bsa indicators off  *eek*
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Offline BrianS

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I will probably replace the sidelights with indicators but at the moment they are doing a good job of holding it all together  *smile*
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK