Author Topic: Headlight option recommendations for a newly upgraded 6v to 12v A10  (Read 2851 times)

Offline coater87

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jul 2008
  • Posts: 1181
  • Karma: 6
 Around here,

 Indicator use is optional if you are on the phone. Nobody uses them or pays attention to them anyway.

 Slower traffic stay to the right is everybody but the guy slowing the entire freeway up.

 The middle finger is considered a courtesy wave.

 I kid you not, its like a 50 mile free for all zone around my house. Only place I know of where you can have a four car pile up at a four way stop because everybody had to be first.

 Rules of the road mean nothing, they are just  mere suggestions.....

 Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Offline BrianS

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 181
  • Karma: 2
I have only just got around to fitting the new headlight and tail light. Taking me a while. I really can't get on with the style of bullet connectors used - mostly brass.

The wires into the new pilot light (LED bulb being used and actually works when I remembered to swap the red and black wires to get the polarity right!) are very thin and didn't seem to lend themselves to the bullets as, once together, my guess is the wire would break trying to pull them apart in the future.

So I resorted to using Japanese bullet connectors which are a lot more sympathetic to small gauge wire. A big plus is that the insulators are clear plastic and you can actually check the connectors are in properly. Is this a big sin in classic bike world?

I fitted a 12v AGM battery because that's what I had on the bench - a Yuasa YTZ7S rated at 6Ah  - and all seemed well at the start but it doesn't hold its charge and the Optimate tells me its "Weak". Maybe that's why it was removed from its original home and parked on the bench. Anyways up, it's been on charge overnight and I will see how it is feeling this morning.

I think I know its deceased so my question is, what is your recommendation for a sensibly priced 12v lead acid battery that will, preferably fit the A10's battery box please?

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Offline mikeb

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Dec 2014
  • Posts: 503
  • Karma: 10
I assume you've checked the dynamo? or least the battery charges before losing its charge without some vampire current draining from your new gadgets?

on my 12v bike I used 2x 6v cyclon monoblocs in series - together they fit inside a standard rubber battery box, with a slight squeeze. cyclons are a spiral lead acid gel. the 6v blocks have 3 cells in a moulding. hence two blocks in series makes 12v, 5AH. they get good press around classic bike circles.
have a look at paul goff's page - he shows them and alternatives: http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybatteries.htm

i similarly gave up on the old style lucas bullet connectors - too big and clumsy, and prone to breaking wires when separating. instead i've used a lot of 4mm copper or plated bullets (not aluminium) and soldered them all for extra security. much easier to manage a bunch of those in the headlamp shell and for me function is more important than rivet counting on electrics.
New Zealand
'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '18 Triumph Street Triple RS

Offline a101960

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Sep 2007
  • Posts: 1032
  • Karma: 11
  • BSA RGS BSA C12
+1 for the cyclons. Fit and forget.

Offline BrianS

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 181
  • Karma: 2
I assume you've checked the dynamo? or least the battery charges before losing its charge without some vampire current draining from your new gadgets?

A very good point Mike!  I fitted a new ammeter whilst I had the headlight off as the old one didn't register much other than a slight flicker. The end result is that it does a grand job of registering a discharge when the lights are switched on but no positive charge is showing when the engine is running and revved so there is a problem twixt dynamo and battery.

I will take it step by step and check the dynamo is actually turning  with the engine before playing with the multimeter.

Is this http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=3089.msg21019#msg21019 a good thread to follow or is there a better one showing a methodical check to identify the cause of no charging please?

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Offline mikeb

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Dec 2014
  • Posts: 503
  • Karma: 10
if you remove the back cover off the dynamo you'll quickly see if its turning with the engine.

that thread's good enough. there's others also showing a similar pic of a bulb between ground and the two dynamo connections (green and yellow connected together, disconnected from the wiring loom) - like this one: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=2681.0

if the bike has been off the road for a while then its possible there is no real problem, just a loss of magnetism. you can 'flash' the dynamo and see if that works, and/or just ride it for 100 miles and see if it lurches into life. that's what happened to mine. i copied this from a forum page once:
Quote
'flashing the field'. Connect the battery live side (the one you want to be live!) to dynamo F for a couple of seconds with the battery earth attached to the frame. You'll see from the ammeter afterwards whether you've got it right - if not, the needle will go the wrong way.

also once you have voltage from the dynamo then if still not charging...  regulator. i cant recall your situation - if its an old lucas mechanical then you'll need to read up some thread and steel yourself for some dark arts. if its a DVR2 then you are probably good to go.
New Zealand
'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '18 Triumph Street Triple RS

Online Greybeard

  • Jack of all trades; master of none.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 5685
  • Karma: 30
I may be teaching my parents parent to remove the contents of eggs but...

If the battery is fully charged you will not see a positive swing on the ammeter.

Offline BrianS

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 181
  • Karma: 2
Some good pointers there - thanks guys!

I seem to have a combination of electrickery issues on my A10  *sad2*

I wasted ages putting the headlight on and taking it off trying to suss out why the lights weren't working until I sussed the light switch is faulty and has to be fiddled with in the lights on position for the lights to work.

I attach a photo of the switch. Can anyone tell me if it is an original (to the A10) switch and if I can dismantle it to clean up contacts or whatever to get it functioning properly please?

Brian
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Online duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4523
  • Karma: 40

 Apart from upside down, It's also diffo. to both the ones I have. The older one has four positions with 'OFF' at the left, I think 2nd pos '1' does nothing, '2' does park/town/side light+tail/whatever, and 4th position '3' does tail/headlight.
 When I figured I had maybe similar issues to you  *dunno*, I bought an aftermarket switch a year or so ago, and does the same ('OFF' at left) but without a dummy '1' position, but I found the wiring to be different too
 Have pics somewhere, I'll try dig'em out
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Online JulianS

  • 1962 A10
  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 915
  • Karma: 19
This is the headlight switch fitted to my A10. It goes OFF L H. They dont dismantle easily because the terminal with external link to the rotor is soldered. The rotor runs in the bakelite of the body. First 2 photos

Other versions of the switch have an internal contact and are easier to dismantle and clean. Also OFF L H position. The rotor runs in a brass sleeve in the body with an internal link to terminal 5. Last 2 photos.

Online Greybeard

  • Jack of all trades; master of none.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 5685
  • Karma: 30
This is the headlight switch fitted to my A10. It goes OFF L H.

The function of the switch is Off, Pilot light, Headlamp with dipswitch on the handlebars

Edit: At least, on my '55 Plunger machine.

Offline BrianS

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 181
  • Karma: 2
Hmmm... Mine is P for just parking and tail ligts, OFF in the centre and Headlights on to the Right. I got nothing to lose by getting the switch off and having a look to see if I can clean up the contacts.

I have removed the unused sidelights which bolted through the headlight and surround and am struggling to find short bolts that match the threads in the headlight nacelle. I think the part number is 0590-46 and possibly 5/16 x 26 tpi?  Are these likely to be correct http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-5-16-BSCy-x1-2-26TPI-Stainless-Hex-Setscrews-Triumph-BSA-Cycle-Thread-Bolts-/370760120564?hash=item56530678f4:g:bvIAAOxyA9dSVlM~
1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash
Exeter, Devon, UK

Online Greybeard

  • Jack of all trades; master of none.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 5685
  • Karma: 30
I bought lovely shiny bolts from Draganfly. They are longer than I expected but means less chance of losing one if it works loose.

Offline mikeb

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Dec 2014
  • Posts: 503
  • Karma: 10
your switch a bit unusual. the older ones were i think a u39 which is like greybeard said - tho i thought it has only 3 positions where dutch says 4. the latter ones are a 41SA that have an extra contact set tho i cant reall what for. or at least 41sa is the replacement -easy to find. like dutch says they centre bit may be soldered, but that didn't stop me having a  go at it - nothing to lose and they do clean up. find a wiring diagram for reassembly  as its not intuitive.

the other point to note is the spring force to keep contact pressure - my b33 switch wobbles around a bit to get the lights to stay on but i think variable lighting is called a feature on a bsa.
New Zealand
'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '18 Triumph Street Triple RS

Online Greybeard

  • Jack of all trades; master of none.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 5685
  • Karma: 30
You might try electrical contact cleaner spray.