Crankshaft shimming

[RichardL]

Hi Richard,
Have you fitted the spacer, cush drive assembly and tightened the nut to see if this affects the figures
If not, do so and then check the end float again ?

John

John,

Thanks for this advice. Would you consider the fact that I thoroughly compressed the inner race in place with the cush nut,  splined sleve, and spacers (outside the crankcase), to be about the same as you're suggesting?

I've moved the whole float-test rig outside to the 28 deg. cold. If the crank still rotates with a couple of fingers I think I should be ready to accept it. I know, I'm fighting like hell to avoid removing the bearing.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

GROAN!

38 deg. case, zero float, turns, but not by just a light sqeeze between ring and pinky fingers (you get that if you read my first post).  OK, decided I may as well bite the bullet and reduce stack by 0.001". Went to use my home-made puller, but it appears  there is no way to get it under the bearing. I think this bearing has a different type roller carrier than my previous bearings. As you can see in the picture, there is a skirt at the bottom. Not sure any puller could get under there. Had I thought about this, I would have put it in the other way. So, can the rollers be practcally removed and replaced with this type of carrier?

Let me say that I appreciate all comments, but I'm thinking the wrting may be on the wall to run it as is and go destructive on the bearing in the next rebuild.

Swarfy, I appreciate your comment, very much. Maybe I'll yet be able to live up to it.

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

Do you have a wood chisel you could use to carefully ease the bearing race away from the web?

[sean]

The engineer now has the crank for a grind and it looks like I have to make the grub screw for the anti syphon valve(67-1401) as nobody stocks them. In the wet sumping thread you will see I had left this part out and had been wet sumping for some strange reason
[/quote

did you try Baxter cycle ?]

[RichardL]

Sean, Did you mean to post in "Crankshaft Shimming"?

[sean]

GROAN!

38 deg. case, zero float, turns, but not by just a light sqeeze between ring and pinky fingers (you get that if you read my first post).  OK, decided I may as well bite the bullet and reduce stack by 0.001". Went to use my home-made puller, but it appears  there is no way to get it under the bearing. I think this bearing has a different type roller carrier than my previous bearings. As you can see in the picture, there is a skirt at the bottom. Not sure any puller could get under there. Had I thought about this, I would have put it in the other way. So, can the rollers be practcally removed and replaced with this type of carrier?

Let me say that I appreciate all comments, but I'm thinking the wrting may be on the wall to run it as is and go destructive on the bearing in the next rebuild.

Swarfy, I appreciate your comment, very much. Maybe I'll yet be able to live up to it.

Richard L.

I used the blades of a couple of hunting knives they slide under the cage just twist them and the bearing should slide off ....if not get the misses to heat the brg up with a propane  torch while your twisting the blades

[sean]

Sean, Did you mean to post in "Crankshaft Shimming"?

yes about the fellow having a problem removing the bearing from the shaft 

[RichardL]

Sean,

I'm rhe fellow

Everyone,

For those trying to help in real time, hold on. I'm in the middle of removing the rollers. Not that hard. Will keep you posted. Yes, that's a threat.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

The rollers are out of the bearing and I'm trying to make new plates for my home-made puller so I can catch the upper lip, which I understand to be stiff. Nothing goes right when you're wrong by a thousandth of an inch. Now that the bearing is ready for the puller, I don't have a band for the bandsaw, or the right blades for the jig saw to cut the plates. Another trip to the hardware store. Thought I would be proudly showing engine in frame today.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

G'day Richard.
I was going to suggest that. Just number and note direction of the rollers (bugga too late).
Another method I've used is to put a hose clamp around the rollers and used a bearing puller on them. (bugga too late).
Cheers

[Swarfcut]

 Double Bugga Too Late. For the sake of a Thou, a more generous application of sealer to the cases would have been worth a go.

    Here my choice would be the deadly silicone, cases drawn lightly together and the seal  left to harden, then a final tighten. Purists look away now.
     Cage on this type of bearing best left  narrow flare to the outside lip, wide flare to the crank. Not saying it was too tight, but the first start up and cases warmed allows things to settle and the cases expand to ease the axial load .On a manual vehicle transmission the plain Crankshaft Thrust Bearings take more load than the forces here, sitting in traffic with the clutch pedal to the floor, and if it would turn even with a fair amount of hand pressure I reckon well lubed to start with you'd have been fine.

 Swarfy.

[muskrat]

G'dat Richard.
Not a good idea really. The cases are to be together with a hard face. Sealants are only to take up irregularities. To exaggerate your method would have the cases together with a flexible joint. Not the done thing.
Cheers

[Greybeard]

I'll admit that I used an old wood chisel to ease the bearing away from the web, then a pair of tyre levers. I acquired some Volvo tyre levers many years ago; they've come in useful many times.

[RichardL]

SIGH.
.............................

Well, in deciding to fix the stack, I figured, "gotta use the puller sooner or later." The inability to use the puller set me on a track to figure that out, even if I wanted to reconsider fixing the stack. The fact that I had another scrap hinge laying around to make new plates for the puller also pushed me along. Two band saw blades later, the project turns into a shopping trip searching for good saw blades, maybe, today. (Yeah, yeah, I could saw slots and grind and all of that, but might as well see if I can get a high-speed steel jigsaw blade that will do it.)


Musky,

It's a new bearing. I'm guessing the factory doesn't select rollers for a specific orientation.  In fact I've seen the "How It's Made" episode that shows bearing being made. They did sort finished ball bearings (and, I assume, rollers) by size, but after that, straight into the autoloader. Got ya' on the sealer, but beyond that now.

Guys,

Thanks for letting me rant. I know much of this is trivial.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

G'day Richard.
One of these would save time and aggravation.
https://tinyurl.com/y47jeann
Cheers