What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Worty]

Was planning a trip out round the Derby's Hills myself, but got sidetracked  

The Loctite Red is holding the stud on enough for me to tighten the nut up quite a bit, so good enough for me.

Have ordered some two part epoxy to fix the job for good if it comes loose again.

Keep yer ears peeled Bergs, will be out around Snake Pass, Castleton, etc very soon on the GF.

[berger]

worty good plan with the two pack stuff i forgot about how good SOME modern resins are , MWAS fixed my garage locking bits with some stuff that sets as hard as MAC hard

[Worty]

They can be brilliant.  Fixed a crack in a rocker cover on a Mazda years ago with some Araldite.  About 14 years ago I put a resin scattercoat on our drive - still going strong with no cracks!

[muskrat]

G'day Bergs.
I just noticed the swing arm on Urma. Do you know what it's off 

The new 9/16" Drag Specialties master cylinder arrived for the HD to compliment the new Wilwood 4 pot caliper & Hel braided line.
Removed the old master cylinder and placed on the bench next to the new one.
  BUGGA the old one is from 82 to 95 and has a bit on the lever to actuate the brake light switch. The new one  is a 96-17 model and doesn't have this bit so the switch must be a pressure switch in the line. Not possible with the new line
Back on with the old and bleed again. Back in the box with the new and try to flog it on gumtree/ebay (cost me $389 + 4 weeks wait). Now to hunt for the right one.
Lucky I've still got a few weeks till I can ride again.
Cheers

[Greybeard]

The problem with the crankcase sump plate threads is getting them clean while oil is about.

[berger]

hi Musky someone told me the swinging arm was early Metmachex  and another person said it was early JMC i have no idea mate , no name on it

[Worty]

The problem with the crankcase sump plate threads is getting them clean while oil is about.

Got a plan for that GB, syringe full of petrol/brake cleaner/meths/carb cleaner.  Blast it up there and, maybe, a swizzle about with a cotton bud thingy.  Very clean, lint free rag in the sump (for oil drips).  Clean the stud end, lather up the threads with epoxy and screw/push in.  Wait 24 hours or so, and tighten the nut.  I don't belt these nuts up, but they have to be reasonably tight so they don't shake off.

TBH, I got a good result from Loctite Red without thoroughly cleaning the case threads (did clean the stud though).  Nut tightens up quite a bit, but too much and the stud starts to extract.

[RDfella]

Took the cyl head off the B31 (actually has a B33 motor in it since some clubs amalgamated historic classes, meaning the 350 was running against bigger / more modern ie less old stuff). Reason was my son was racing it at the weekend and he was visited by a lack of all power and 'a tinkling sound' halfway through the event.
Turns out an exhaust valve cotter had disintegrated and allowed the valve to drop. Valve is naturally bent and the valve guide is cracked but otherwise no apparent mischief apart from a couple of slight blemishes on the piston's exhaust valve pocket. That B31 (in 350 guise) gave years of service from mid 60's 'till I finally retired around 15 yrs ago and I only recall two breakdowns, a seized big end when sandracing (ran out of oil) and a broken tappet when hill-climbing (but managed to bodge that for the rest of the day). Had the odd (slightly) bent valve from over-revving but that didn't stop it. But never had (or heard of) a cotter breaking up. 
Now to try and remember what valve I used when I built it as a 500 ..... 

[muskrat]

G'day RD.
No, never had one of them let go.
I never did like that type. Most of the time the valve stem needed dressing to get the valve out.
Is there a way to put SR style valves, collets and keepers in?
Cheers

[RDfella]

Fitted a GS inlet valve / springs / retainer but that required shortening the valve and re-cutting the cotter groove - not easy. Springs are a different diameter and the retainer is alloy - I keep a close eye on that as I fear it might 'spread' and let the cotters through. So far, so good ....
Re the exhaust, seem to recall having the stem ground down, but will need to check against std equipment. Otherwise it'll be a search across the automotive field for correct head dia and length (using Ford Pinto valves in my new motor).

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
My HD brake problem might be solved.
A HD Forum member from NZ suggested one of these https://www.brownindustries.com.au/product/banjo-switch-brake-light-7-16/
I'll put it in the caliper end and run the wire up the hose.
I love this interweb!
Cheers

[Worty]

G'day Fellas.
My HD brake problem might be solved.
A HD Forum member from NZ suggested one of these https://www.brownindustries.com.au/product/banjo-switch-brake-light-7-16/
I'll put it in the caliper end and run the wire up the hose.
I love this interweb!
Cheers

It is amazing what's out there Musky!

[berger]

RDfella my mates B33 dropped a valve many years ago and we found a banana conrod when he lifted the barrel .

[RDfella]

RDfella my mates B33 dropped a valve many years ago and we found a banana conrod when he lifted the barrel .

Haven't taken the barrel off yet - piston comes to top, though, so encouraging. If it's OK was considering fitting a dope piston I've got to give it a bit more oomph. Although it won't be me riding it, I rather like the response of a motor on dope - seems to be more instant. If however it turns out more work is required, I'll simply refit the 350 motor. I spent years trying to find a 65-1891 cam for that - now that I have one, it should go even better!

[Magista]

Waiting on a set of canvas saddlebags to arrive in the mail today so I can install them.