Author Topic: How the rubber strip is retained on the front of Cowpat style cowls  (Read 340 times)

Online Greybeard

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RichardL has asked me for details of the retaining method for the rubber that goes between the headlamp shell and the front edge of the cowl, (on cowpat style cowls).

I've taken some photos and I post them here because other folks may need to see them.

The rubber strip has a stepped edge that engages with the cowl edge and a bull-nose edge that is slid through the retaining parts; they appear to have been spot welded to the inside of the cowl.
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Online Beeza

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COOL, just quick one, what's the best way to get the speedo in to that cowl, mate.
Cheers Thomas.
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Online RichardL

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Neil,

Thanks,. so much. Those pics do say a lot, but I thought I said "no disassembly."  *smile* *good3* What I get from this is to make my clips for a moderate, unsprung, hold on the strip without requiring squishing the bead. Am I correct that there are five clips? Here's a couple of pics of the current state of the sheet metal. Please don't judge me too harshly for the dib-dab look of flux-wire welding, which won't matter at all under the bondo. Anyway, more grinding to come.

Richard L.
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Online Greybeard

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COOL, just quick one, what's the best way to get the speedo in to that cowl, mate.
Cheers Thomas.
Thomas, I'll write it up and put it in its own topic. Keep an eye out for it.
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Online Greybeard

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Thanks,. so much. Those pics do say a lot, but I thought I said "no disassembly."  *smile* *good3*
My memory is not trustworthy. I needed to have a fresh look.
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What I get from this is to make my clips for a moderate, unsprung, hold on the strip without requiring squishing the bead.
Indeed. They are not really clips; more like retainers; they don't exert any real pressure on the rubber, just hold it in place. Have you obtained the correct profiled rubber strip?
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Am I correct that there are five clips?
Yes, five. I see you still have one on your cowl.
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Here's a couple of pics of the current state of the sheet metal. Please don't judge me too harshly for the dib-dab look of flux-wire welding, which won't matter at all under the bondo. Anyway, more grinding to come.
Richard L.
It'll all be alright on the night!  *smile*


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Online RichardL

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I thought there might be some interest in seeing the metal that got replaced. The strip at the edge replaces the rusted area and the square replaces the area where I blew through holes too big to weld up. I guess this would have been better with real MIG and argon gas shield, but I assume I'd start out bad at that, too.

GB,

I have yet to acquire any of the rubber bits yet. Thinking Draganfly might be the source. Comments?

Richard L.
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Online RichardL

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Yes, five. I see you still have one on your cowl.

Yep, but I didn't know if it had been distorted, so I was double-checking with you before replicating it as it is. It's a bit tricky to make the tight bends with a radius on such a small piece, and with only a bench vise and a few basic body dollies and hammers.

Richard L.
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Offline Swarfcut

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 Richard.. Before you get the bondo out, assemble the forks, cowl and headlamp shell. The yokes must lie in the same plane, in other words the stanchions must be parallel. If the yokes are not lined up, the cowl will be raised up at one side and the gap around the top of the headlamp will not be even. With everything as it will be finally positioned, now do your perfection panel work, then proceed to the final finish.

  Years ago I bought a genuine cowl from C&D Autos when they were still in  Birmingham. It was uneven around the top of the shell, so I took it back, got another, exactly the same. It was fine until the wheel was centred with the bars, then the uneven gap appeared. Turned out I had a bent fork leg, lining up the wheel moved the yokes out of plane, hence the gap. The rubber strip was unavailable then so I made a fake one with a piece of P section door draught excluder. Snag was it was only available in white.

  The speedo sits in a big moulded rubber grommet, fit to the cowl first, then insert the speedp and work the internal lips of the grommet over the speedo bezel to secure  it in place. Soap or washing up liquid helps lubricate the rubber.

 Swarfy
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Online RichardL

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Swarfy,

That's good advice, even if it does put a damper on the joy of Bondo.

Richard L.
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Online Greybeard

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Let's try and stay on topic.

Richard what about making the clips from copper or brass. Easier to make and they could be soft soldered to the cowl.

I cannot remember where I bought the rubber strip, probably Draganfly. Better see if it's available before you commit to recreating the original clips; you may need to modify the design.
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Online RichardL

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Let's try and stay on topic.

Richard what about making the clips from copper or brass. Easier to make and they could be soft soldered to the cowl.

I cannot remember where I bought the rubber strip, probably Draganfly. Better see if it's available before you commit to recreating the original clips; you may need to modify the design.

I think I'll be OK with the steel and I think waiting to have the strip is a good idea.

Richard L.
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Online morris

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Peter's classic bike parts has them. (67-5087)
They are good quality and good fit, I can confirm.
https://pcb.shopfactory.com/contents/en-us/d101.html
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