Author Topic: electronic ignition  (Read 904 times)

Online RoyC

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electronic ignition
« on: 24.06. 2019 17:22 »
1959 A7ss.
What is the easiest to fit electronic ignition that I can fit to my bike ?
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Stafford UK

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #1 on: 24.06. 2019 17:50 »
The most expensive one:  BT-H electronic magneto.

Online RoyC

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #2 on: 24.06. 2019 21:23 »
Thanks for that.
You are not kidding about expensive, Geeeez, £774.   *help*

https://www.bt-h.biz/k2f--lucas-replica-flange-magneto-13-p.asp 
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Stafford UK

Online RoyC

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #3 on: 24.06. 2019 21:32 »
Do all of them have to have a coil ?
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Stafford UK

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #4 on: 24.06. 2019 22:27 »
Ok, maybe the easiest to fit isn’t your only requirement.

Cheapest is the Wassell kit.  Works very well.  You’ll have to buy a housing to go where your magneto was and a coil.  Possibly a drive pinion too, depending what you have now.

Needs 12V, as do most kits. 

Fun, eh!

Online JulianS

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #5 on: 24.06. 2019 22:35 »
Finding somewhere to mount and how to mount the coil with a battery powered setup is one of the main problems.

There is not that much space.

Some instructions make the vague suggestion of under the tank or under the seat which does not help that much.

In my case the dual output coil used with a Boyer mark 4 is fitted in the tool box with a heat sink, they can get hot. The moulded in HT leads were too short and had to be extended with HT splicers.

Online orabanda

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #6 on: 25.06. 2019 02:19 »
I am very happy with the BT-H electronic magneto.
It requires two coils to be fitted. They are very small. I fitted them under the ski slope, and routed the leads ouver the top of the rocker box.

Richard

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #7 on: 25.06. 2019 10:00 »
Roy. My choice is Thorspark. It uses the existing magneto complete with the ATD or manual set up and saves the cost of the  Wassell housing. The switching unit fits neatly into the points housing, and the control unit is available in 6 or 12 volt form. The magneto armature only needs to turn, as it simply acts as a carrier. Single coil with twin HT output, dead spark, gives accurate identical timing on both cylinders.  Power requirement is low, will supposedly give a day's running on dry batteries in case of charging system failure.

 Swarfy.

Online KiwiGF

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #8 on: 25.06. 2019 10:39 »
1959 A7ss.
What is the easiest to fit electronic ignition that I can fit to my bike ?

I “second” BTH, I’ve got an older version with the CDI unit fully inside, but once I got over issues with getting the timing right all I’ve had to do is polish it  *smile*
New Zealand

Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my 2nd one.

1956 Flash Frame EA7-168x Eng. CA10 913x, left BSA together for Liverpool, 5th Dec 1955.

B31 “hot rod” (yeah right)

Armstrong Siddeley Whitley for rainy days (with wife).

GL1800 Goldwing not sure why yet

Online RoyC

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #9 on: 25.06. 2019 15:33 »
Roy. My choice is Thorspark. It uses the existing magneto complete with the ATD or manual set up and saves the cost of the  Wassell housing. The switching unit fits neatly into the points housing, and the control unit is available in 6 or 12 volt form. The magneto armature only needs to turn, as it simply acts as a carrier. Single coil with twin HT output, dead spark, gives accurate identical timing on both cylinders.  Power requirement is low, will supposedly give a day's running on dry batteries in case of charging system failure.

 Swarfy.
I assume that this is the one that you are referring to -  http://www.sussexmotorcycles.com/thorsparksecureonlineshop/prod_960628-Lucas-K2F-bike-has-12-volt-electrics-twin-cylinder.html 

My bike is 12 Volt.

Also found this  -   https://get.google.com/albumarchive/110323277286299979642/album/AF1QipPnuo67Vua5ddNIxOyIRd5TAP0LzVa-_7F1uuh_/AF1QipOmbQo8xAnixqNbqrutTLwavEC2jXdU6qsn1Uyy#6189063672160038834
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Stafford UK

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #10 on: 25.06. 2019 16:05 »
Roy That's the one. Easy to install, no need to remove the magneto, final timing adjustment is made at the points end under running conditions with a strobe. These days with different octane fuels the good old advance 'til it pinks, back it off a bit way works fine, rather than the original stick in the hole method.

Purchase price seems expensive, but presume that is what the market is prepared to pay. Not too pricey compared with other choices which have a cheaper electronic system usually made for points based coil ignition, but need the addition of a suitable mounting body and discarding the magneto completely.

 Swarfy.

Online Greybeard

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #11 on: 25.06. 2019 17:20 »
The Thorspark cost about half what I paid to have my K2F overhauled!!

Online RoyC

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #12 on: 25.06. 2019 17:54 »
Roy That's the one. Easy to install, no need to remove the magneto, final timing adjustment is made at the points end under running conditions with a strobe.

 Swarfy.

Does the manual advance / retard still work or does it become redundant ?
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Stafford UK

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #13 on: 25.06. 2019 17:54 »
Does the Thorspark really use the magneto bearings (held in by paper daisies) and oil seal and the old auto advance?

Don’t fancy that much.

Anyway, have you seen this weird thing?  A dummy K2F that holds a Wassell electronic trigger.  £300 + VAT.

https://www.feked.com/authentic-k2f-magneto-housing-for-electronic-ignition-systems.html




Offline Swarfcut

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Re: electronic ignition
« Reply #14 on: 25.06. 2019 18:36 »
Roy... Manual Advance or ATD stays as before, so no dismantling of these parts is necessary.

 TT.. You use your non sparking magneto simply as a carrier for the system, no current flows through the armature.  Yes, knackered bearings, shagged seal, full of oil, rattle version ATD, all still works.
  I reckon that dummy K2F body needs the price of your chosen electronic system to be added...I  think the £300 just gets you the housing.  Interestingly a branded Lucas Headlamp Rim is cheaper than an English made one, both featured on the Feked Site. How does that stack up? The only thing Genuine Lucas is the Lucas name, huh?

 Swarfy.