anti wet sump valve linked to mag cutout

[DazSeaton]

A good idea to protect against forgetfulness. However, one other problem with anti wet sump valves is that if the bike is left standing for a long time the oil pump will drain out dry, particularly if the pump is a bit worn. In these circumstances the pump won't return because it cannot create a vacuum within its return chambers. This will happen even after you've turned the valve on again unless you remember to wait for the oil to drain out of the return pipe and rocker pipe back into the pump.

I may regret reviving this post, but here goes 

There is now another manual anti wet sump valve on the market for the A10 with a wire I can connect to my ignition to prevent start up when left closed.

https://www.feked.com/anti-wet-sump-oil-pipe-tap-with-switch-magneto-or-coil-ignition-systems.html?goal=0_2e45b530d2-4641a6cdba-199983573&mc_cid=4641a6cdba&mc_eid=f709c083b2

Have read beezermacc comment as above about the pump will drain out dry. Does this still apply to this type of valve as it is a manual valve and not a automatic / one way valve?

Has anyone fitted this "Feked" valve with good or bad experiences?

I have a sump drain on mine, but the wet sumping is now so bad half the tanks empties and it overflows on the garage floor. I know I should strip it down and repair properly, but I haven't got the skill/time/budget/confidence or inclination to do it as I now only ride my BSA occasionally.

Please be nice to me. 

[rocker21]

Yes I have one my fieldmaster, works fine

[Greybeard]

If the internal check valve is serviced wet sumping should be minimised, if not prevented. When I first overhauled the engine on my bike back in 2012, I'd luckily read about the need to clear the sludge trap but didn't even know about the ball and spring in the crankcase that (should) act as a one-way valve for oil flow. When I had to take the engine apart years later I put a new spring and ball, (tapping it to reform the seating) in and wet sumping stopped.

I found a post from ChaterLea25 about these valves on the forum from a few years ago:
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=13668.0

[DazSeaton]

If the internal check valve is serviced wet sumping should be minimised, if not prevented. When I first overhauled the engine on my bike back in 2012, I'd luckily read about the need to clear the sludge trap but didn't even know about the ball and spring in the crankcase that (should) act as a one-way valve for oil flow. When I had to take the engine apart years later I put a new spring and ball, (tapping it to reform the seating) in and wet sumping stopped.

I found a post from ChaterLea25 about these valves on the forum from a few years ago:
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=13668.0

that is exactly what I'm saying. I don't want to rebuild the engine.

[Swarfcut]

  Without stripping the motor there are a couple of tricks to try before fitting any version of cut off valve to the oil supply side.

 Preventing air entering the oiltank will slow the rate of draindown. So a good fitting and sealing tank cap is a must, along with some convenient way of blocking and opening the tank vent to atmosphere.

 Another madcap scheme is to take off the sump drain plug and tank cap after every run and just let the whole lot settle into a nice clean catch tank. This will also carry down any contaminants which will settle out, but does not empty the oilank completely, only to the pipe exit level. Then for the next run, refill with fresh oil, and next time use the first oil again, leaving the muck to be cleared out and dumped. This way the oil gets used in a constant cycle and some contaminants are removed from the engine. But it's such bother, although in the short term it avoids any major mechanical work.

 Oil in the tank reaches the pump by gravity, the pump itself runs in oil, and running completely dry is only possible if the tank is empty or the flow obstructed.

 All schemes require a bit of memory or reminders, that's why doing the job properly lets you sleep easy.

 Swarfy.

 

[limeyrob]

When I built my engine I put a 5/16 BSC drain plug in the steel sump.   After 2 weeks I started it to see how long it took to clear the oil on the pump.  I could see when the flow changed from continuous to intermittent.  Took about 10 mins just off idle.  Buy boy did it make a lot of smoke and even when the oil flow was nice and bubbly it was still smoking but a lot less.  After the next similar period of standing I drained the oil into a jar and got about 1/2 a tea cup.  Then I put the plug back in and started it.  Absolutely no smoke.
I'm using a clean jam jar with a lid so I put the oil back in the tank.
What surprised me is how much smoke such a small amount of extra oil in the sump causes and how long it smokes for.  Obviously its getting picked up on the flywheel and onto the bores, but its much more persistent than I would have expected.
Going back to the "baffled/confused/covered in oil" thread it looks like the oil in the sump may only have been 1/4" to 3/8" on top of the gauze to cause a huge amount of smoke.

[Worty]

Just put a tap on the feed line like I did and put a big sticker on the tank with 'switch oil on' written on it.

[berger]

years ago when mine wet sumped it didn't  burn any oil but chucked it into the mag and all over the floor from the breather, those gandini rings are good

[groily]

More than one way to flood a mag bergs!
See this one - unexpected oil seal failure!

[Worty]

More than one way to flood a mag bergs!
See this one - unexpected oil seal failure!

Yowch, nasty!

[berger]

morning Bill, my mate alerted me to copious amounts of oil under the bike but it didn't show any smoke and when i unscrewed the points cover loads of oil came out. when i took it apart it looked just like your picture.

[Triton Thrasher]

Just put a tap on the feed line like I did and put a big sticker on the tank with 'switch oil on' written on it.

Mechanical suicide.

[limeyrob]

Absolutely agree. I work on human error and major accident - just come back from auditing a rig.  To put a manual valve in an oil line would be an absolute no-no and lead to an immediate non-conformity and action plan.  Would require to be double locked with key safe!
That's why I have a drain plug and clean jar, its intrinsically fail safe and the drain plug is wire locked.  Takes a minute to drain and pour the oil back in the tank and I'll never seize an engine.

[Worty]

Just put a tap on the feed line like I did and put a big sticker on the tank with 'switch oil on' written on it.

Mechanical suicide.

Fear not, TT, I've got an excellent memory (for now, at least).  I don't even post a reminder on the tank.  I'd be more worried about trusting the cut-out device, to be honest.

Disclaimer:  If you suffer from poor memory or associated issues, this solution is not recommended.

[Triton Thrasher]

Absolutely agree. I work on human error and major accident - just come back from auditing a rig.  To put a manual valve in an oil line would be an absolute no-no and lead to an immediate non-conformity and action plan.  Would require to be double locked with key safe!
That's why I have a drain plug and clean jar, its intrinsically fail safe and the drain plug is wire locked.  Takes a minute to drain and pour the oil back in the tank and I'll never seize an engine.

I was only “sort of” in safety, but I know that a warning sign doesn’t make someone do something.