anti wet sump valve linked to mag cutout

[DazSeaton]

BSA A10 Super Rocket 59 (electronic ignition with a key for cut out)
Fed up of it wet sumping so badly it floods the garage floor. So going for it.
Has anyone got a photo of the magneto guys or feked Oil Tap with Cut Out Switch installed on an A10.
Trying to think where to locate it. Will it fit on crankcase end behind speedo drive (see attached potential location)? Assume it goes on lower Pipe as per feked install?
https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/oil-tap-with-cut-out-switch
https://www.feked.com/anti-wet-sump-oil-pipe-tap-with-switch-magneto-or-coil-ignition-systems.html?variation_id=26504
Dont fancy doing it like shown on feked web site. see attached.
Also can someone point me in the right direction of where you can buy oil pipe parts such as elbows and straight unions. dont want to cut up my existing pipe as I may refit.
Measured my oil pipe male unions and they are 13.1mm diameter which is 1/4" BSPP. Is that correct?
cheers me dears.

[Worty]

Mate, I've just done this.  Have a look on the site for a good set up.  I'll see if I can get some info and piccies for you tomorrow.

[DazSeaton]

Mate, I've just done this.  Have a look on the site for a good set up.  I'll see if I can get some info and piccies for you tomorrow.

Thank you

[CheeserBeezer]

....
Also can someone point me in the right direction of where you can buy oil pipe parts such as elbows and straight unions. dont want to cut up my existing pipe as I may refit.
Measured my oil pipe male unions and they are 13.1mm diameter which is 1/4" BSPP. Is that correct?
cheers me dears.

These parts are the same as petrol pipe / tap fittings. I stock all that stuff.

[Worty]

Mate, I've just done this.  Have a look on the site for a good set up.  I'll see if I can get some info and piccies for you tomorrow.

Thank you

See pictures below for my set up.  You can get the Feked item or the Magneto Guys unit, but I got the Feked unit off Ebay for £24.  For the Feked unit, I used a couple of 3/8" to 1/4" reducers on either side of the valve.  I then rerouted the original oil pipe through the engine plates and screwed the pipe on ( the 90 degree bend on the pipe is very helpful with this and you don't have to cut the pipe at all).

On the oil tank side, I used a 90 degree elbow with female fittings.  As you'd have guessed, this screws onto the oil tank and the other side of the valve (opposite side to the oil pipe, of course).

Adapters and elbow were about £10 off Ebay.

In the pictures, it may seem a bit busy as I located my spin-on filter in the space where the ski slope would go - it all seems to work fine though. 

When finished, I'd recommend bleeding the oil through the pipes at the crankcase end initially, just to ensure there is no air lock.  The feed works on gravity (and maybe a bit of suction through the pump when running), but the flow is notoriously slow (as someone put it, 'like a bit of honey running off a spoon') - and very slow when cold with thicker oil.

You can seal your threads with PTFE, but be careful you don't get any in the pipes.  I didn't use much tape at all (oil tank only) as the rest seems oil tight.

CAUTION - the pictures on the Feked website show the position of the lever in odd positions.  I have found that the white, plastic plunger has to be DEPRESSED to engage the earth and not allow the bike to start, when the oil lever is ON, the plunger should NOT be depressed (see pictures).  CHECK sparks at plugs during set up to see when maggie is earthed or not when lever is in both off and on positions.  I got this wrong initially due to the error on Feked's site.  When I asked them about it, they said they'd just taken a picture of the unit and had not noted the correct position of the lever!!

[Worty]

Links to items I used:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134319536811 (x 2)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142826314751?var=441828840032 (x 1)

[DazSeaton]

Many thanks. Why the reducer?

[Worty]

Many thanks. Why the reducer?

On the Feked item, the valve body is 3/8" both sides.  The reducer allows the original oil pipe (1/4") to be screwed onto the reducer which, in turn, is screwed into the valve body.  On the other side, I couldn't find a 90 degree elbow with female 1/4" for the oil tank and 3/8" male for the valve body.  The solution was to put the same reducer as is on the other side as it was easier to find a 1/4" female to 1/4" female 90 degree elbow.

[DazSeaton]

got a potential problem. the new "compact" angle union nut is massive compared to the oil pipe end. So big its touching frame and pushing tank mountings out of line. any ideas how to resolve or where to get slimline "Equal BSPP Male For Bonded Seal x BSPP Swivel Female 90° Compact Elbow 60° Cone" from?

[Worty]

The item I used in the link above was fine.  It was quite tight against the frame, but with a bit of wiggling and swearing I managed to get a 2mm rubber pad between the frame and the nut, then push the oil tank fully in.  My logic says that being nice and snug against the frame, it's unlikely to shake loose.

Try loosening the top bolt, but not removing it from the oil tank altogether.  Next really loosen off (or maybe remove) the saddle type assembly to the front of the tank (loosening better than removal).  I then screwed on the elbow really tightly, put the rubber pad next to the nut and frame, then shoved the whole lot firmly back (with a bit of oil on the pad to help).

Do not take out the top bolt with the pad in place - you will NEVER get it back in.

[DazSeaton]

Yes. Thats what I ended up doing but thought vibrations would eventually damage oil tank union. Had to turn nut so flat was against frame to get on.

[Worty]

That's what I did too - flat against the frame.  As for vibration damaging stuff, that's going to happen with these bikes I reckon.

In fact, it's just occurred to me as to why Japanese bikes are constructed with (often) such flimsy materials - maybe they can because they don't have all the stresses from vibration?

[DazSeaton]

all sorted. many thanks to Worty for his input.

List of parts used for my BSA A10.

magneto guys 1/4" Male to Female
https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/oil-tap-with-cut-out-switch

connects to oil tank and comes out at angle ¼” x ¼”
Equal BSPP Male For Bonded Seal x BSPP Swivel Female 90° Compact Elbow 60° Cone
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132655262498?var=431986316962


need this to give enough clearance from return pipe to allow fitting of tap and also swivels so tap can be put at correct angle. ¼” x ¼”
BSP Male- Female Swivel Fittings 10 Bar Rated , Allows you to swivel any fitting
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112544595200?var=412938103337

also 2no ¼” doughty washers

oil pipe needs to be rerouted other side of clutch cable

was skeptical that coned oil pipe wouldnt seal to male side of oil tap, but seems to work. will monitor and get adapter if necessary (but may need to alter as pipe wont move anymore)

[Worty]

I was also unsure as to whether the coned (male) pipe would fit well onto the adapter as it doesn't have a coned female machining, but it is fine with no leaks.  If there had been a bit of leakage, I'd have wrapped the joint with PTFE tape and belted it up.

I took my GF for a 148m blast after I'd done the job, and it didn't sieze up, so must work

I did have a slight leak from the adapter to tap joint, but I'll PTFE that at some point.  Otherwise, the whole set up works perfectly.

Glad I could be of help - safe riding!